Going Home

31 May – 2 June, 2016 – Dubrovnik to Munich to Hong Kong to Melbourne

Weather: Great.

It is time to start the long journey home. Our first flight is not until the late afternoon so there is no need to hurry. We go to the local breakfast place where we have been a number of times. As we are not sure when we will get our next meal, we have a big breakfast – omelette for me. We don’t have to exit the apartment until Noon so move slowly, especially with the packing of the suitcases. Eventually the apartment owner comes down the stairs to help us move out as we had asked him to carry our bags down the two levels of tricky stairs.

We trudge our suitcases all the way across the old town and out the gate.

Out the gate. Clearly the cruise ships are in
Out the gate. Clearly the cruise ships are in

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We are not sure when our ride will come pick us up but we do know it will not be for at least 90 minutes. So we stop at a coffee shop for some drinks, it is a warm day and we get some shade.

Our last photo of the trip
Our last photo of the trip

Our boat captain from the other day is sitting at the table next to us. When Julie comes back from the loo, he tries to get her to go Kayaking but she obviously cannot. Then behind us, and I did not personally see it, a guy falls and hits his head. There was apparently blood everywhere. The waiter staff were right on the ball, calling an ambulance, helping to stop the bleeding, cleaning him up and then cleaning up the stones after he was taken away.

We are not sure when the Driver will come so we head down to opposite the Hilton and sit on a ledge waiting. Eventually he turns up and we load up his van and hop in. Turns out that he is a college student driving as a side job. Seemed to be a nice guy. It is around a 30 minute drive to the airport. Unload and check-in – easy enough although there was no one serving the Business Class line when we first got there. There is a bit of a delay getting through security, what else is new? We go to the Business Class lounge. It is not the worst ever but not that great.

The flight is called and we go out to the gate. It is a bus ride out onto the tarmac to board the plane. The take off was OK, it is a small airport. The meal was OK, some interesting cold cuts including a piece of Smoked Duck. We land OK at Munich Airport but when we exit the plane, the gate to get out into the airport is locked with no one around. Eventually some one opens it. All transition passengers have to go through another security screening. It is very slow but it does not really matter as we have nearly a 4 hours stopover.

Munich Airport is large and modern. We take a shuttle across to the other terminal. We find the lounge, it is very modern but the food selection is ordinary. When we finally board the plane, Lufthansa Flight, we find that business class is six seats across, not great for two reasons:
(1) The seats are naturally more narrow.
(2) The two window seats have to climb over a passenger to go to the loo.

We have middle two seats so the latter is not a problem for us. I am greeted by a Stewardess who starts speaking German to me. Whereas I mostly understood what she said, I pointed out that we were Australian. She apologised but we were good friends for the rest of the flight and the service was good. The meals were interesting and well laid out but mostly tasteless. I had a sliced beef starter and curried chicken, whereas for brunch had Chinese noodles – all bland.

We finally land in Hong Kong after a 10+ hours flight. Air traffic control added another 15 minutes to the flight. Again it does not matter as there is another 3 hour layover in Hong Kong. The airport is also modern but it is difficult to find the lounge. Once inside, it is great – I do like the Asian airlines the best. There is nice dim sum and a very good Thai Green Curry. I could have eaten all day but I know there will be more food coming on the flight.

When we board the plane, the seat layout in business class is much better with 4 across seating with much wider seats and all patrons have direct access to the aisle. The Asian staff are great too and it just feels more like home. Not for the first time, maybe the 50th, I fall asleep on the taxi out and wake up when we are in the air and the seat belt sign is off.

The airline meals were good, I cannot recall what I had for dinner but there was a nice Dim Sum collection for breakfast. The flight is 9+ hours and when we land at about 6:15 AM, the Pilot announces that it is 4 degrees – Yuk. We pick up the duty free, OK even though the receipts were locked in the suitcase. Our bags come off relatively quickly and it is straight out of immigration and customs through the priority queue. I put on extra layers of clothing but it is still quite cold outside. No wait for a taxi which we take to Gary’s place where my car has been the last 5 weeks. We say hello to Gary, who has warmed the car up a bit and drive home, arriving some 32 hours after leaving the apartment in Dubrovnik.. When inside, it is damn cold. The heaters take a while to get going. I wished that I was back in the sun at Dubrovnik. Unload the suitcases and do 5 loads of washing. I guess we are home.

So, loyal readers, that is it for that trip. I hope you enjoyed sharing some of the trip with us. If I find any mistakes or get more input e.g. from Jan or Boris, I may do updates in place. But for now it is so long!

Our trip is coming to a close

Monday, 30 May, 2016 – Dubrovnik

Weather: Still sunny and windy

Yes, the stay in Dubrovnik is in its penultimate day as is the overall trip which started long ago in Germany. Tomorrow we start the long trudge back to Australia. We have breakfast in the room with items from the Bakery and Store by Julie. I didn’t do much of anything, other than the Blog, mostly by design for the winding down stage. Julie goes walking about, I think a lot of it outside the walls of the old town, including a market.

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Cheeses
Cheeses

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I have no idea what this is
I have no idea what this is

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3 hours across the Adriatic supposedly
3 hours across the Adriatic supposedly

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A cheap Syrah
A cheap Syrah

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Aussie, Aussie, Aussie
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie

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There were a number of cheap / potentially good value wines there. But we really did not need any more since we are departing tomorrow. In fact, we still have a bottle of Rose in the Fridge which we are to polish off.

Milos Rose
Milos Rose

We have made a reservation for Proto Seafood restaurant again. We end up sitting outside in a laneway as the hostess tells us there will be quite a rowdy crowd on the terrace this evening.

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We end up moving down one table as the wind was quite annoying on that first table.

Settled in at Proto
Settled in at Proto
Snails
Snails

The picture is hazy and is a reflection of the dish as it was not very nice at all, big, tough offputting flavour and nowhere near enough garlic.

Julie's salad looked OK
Julie’s salad looked OK
Sea Bass
Sea Bass

Julie had had that dish the other night but this was not nearly as nice.

Steak for me
Steak for me

I am not sure why I ordered steak, I almost never do in a restaurant. It was OK but overall my ordering was poor. In fact, both of us agreed that we were quite disappointed with Proto this time, I guess you should never go back.

Irish Coffee for Julie
Irish Coffee for Julie

After that it is back to the apartment, finish off the Rose and then to bed as we commence the long journey home tomorrow.

By Ourselves in Dubrovnik

Sunday, 29 May, 2016 – Dubrovnik

Weather: Sunny, but windy.

Yes, all the rest of the troops are gone whereas we still have another 2 1/2 days in Dubrovnik. The point of this extra time is to chill out a bit before the long flight back to Australia and then Julie returning to work. Julie goes out to the bakery and buys some breakfast supplies, including a Borek for me. She then hurries off because yesterday she had booked a Kayak adventure with the Captain of our boat. She is gone around 20 minutes and comes back because the wind is deemed to be too strong so the Kayaking has been called off. Instead, Julie does a walk around the town walls. The following are her photos.

A typical range of stairs from the top of the wall
A typical range of stairs from the top of the wall
Along the wall
Along the wall
Down to the old Harbour and where we were last night
Down to the old Harbour and where we were last night
The Old Harbour - note the Kayaks in the racks
The Old Harbour – note the Kayaks in the racks
The Island we boated around yesterday
The Island we boated around yesterday

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The City Harbour and where we had lunch yesterday
The City Harbour and where we had lunch yesterday

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The Cable Cars to the top of the hill
The Cable Cars to the top of the hill

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Overlooking the town to our island
Overlooking the town to our island

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Julie comes back around Noon, I had been working on this Blog. We decide to go look at Restaurant 360, perhaps the best known in Dubrovnik and where Boris and Viktorya had gone two nights ago. It had a great view but was not open for lunch and the menu looked expensive and not that flash. So we went to the other side of that inlet and settled in at another place there.

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The view is just as good here
The view is just as good here

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Our table is right on the water
Our table is right on the water

We order off of the “light lunch” menu.

Smoked Tuna for Julie - just OK
Smoked Tuna for Julie – just OK
Fish and Chips for me
Fish and Chips for me

The wind really started whipping up to the extent that the waiters had to pull the big umbrellas down. You can see the white caps on the bay in the following photo.

Pirate Ship leaving the City Harbour
Pirate Ship leaving the City Harbour
Our Favourite Croatian wine
Our Favourite Croatian wine

I don’t remember much about that afternoon and there are no photos available from me or Julie so maybe we did achieve the chill-out goal. A couple photos in the early evening before we go out for dinner.

Great looking bar
Great looking bar

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We head out through the town to look for a dinner place. The goal is to find a place serving salmon. Julie eventually guides us to a laneway setting, out of the wind, which she obviously knew had salmon on the menu.

Note all the stairs in the background
Note all the stairs in the background
The well hidden restaurant blackboard
The well hidden restaurant blackboard
Salmon, of course
Salmon, of course

Julie complained to the wiater that there was something on the menu for this dish that was not there.

Burger for me, just OK
Burger for me, just OK
Irish Coffee
Irish Coffee

We wanted to leave but the Waiter said that he had something for us.

A Dessert for both of us
A Dessert for both of us

Apparently because of the omission on Julie’s salmon they decide to give us these desserts. Many readers will know that I am not a dessert person so eventually I gave mine away to people sitting at the table behind us. Still a nice gesture. Then it is off to bed.

The Breaking of the Fellowship

Saturday, 28 May, 2016 – Dubrovnik

Weather Report: Perfect

Well, like the Lord of the Rings, all Fellowships must eventually break-up. We had lost Andrew last night and today Boris/Viktorya and Jan/Hugh are to move out of the apartments – the former to fly to Frankfurt, the latter to transfer to a Hotel in the old town so they can catch an early morning flight back to the USA tomorrow. We are all a little slow moving this morning so it is about 10:00 before Julie goes out the door just as Jan & Hugh are doing the same. We have no fixed plans so decide to go for breakfast at a nearby place in the plaza where Julie and I had been a few times before. There we would discuss plans for the day.

Hugh ordered Strudel
Hugh ordered Strudel
Not the best grilled ham and cheese I have ever had
Not the best grilled ham and cheese I have ever had

We sit there for a while, talking about various options for today. Jan & Hugh have to move out of the apartment at Noon so we head over there. I have not had a shower yet and am keen to do so but the Owners are there cleaning so I cannot. The good thing is that they help Jan & Hugh with their luggage down the stairs and they go off to their Hotel for the night. They cannot check-in yet but leave the bags there. Presumably, the owners also helped Boris & Viktorya move out. Once we saw Boris at a distance but that was all so last night was goodbye from us to them.

Jan and Hugh return from the Hotel and we go back to our breakfast restaurant to make decisions on what to do the rest of the day. We read about a restaurant, Nautika, which is at the Old Harbour so we decide we will walk down there to check it out. When we get there we decide that it looks quite good and make a reservation for tonight. Julie then takes the guys down into the Old Harbour for a look around.

The Old Harbour
The Old Harbour
The Fort protecting the Old Harbour
The Fort protecting the Old Harbour

The Harbour has several tour company operators who are primarily doing Kayaking tours around the harbour area. Julie talks to one of them and organises a two hour boat ride around the walls of the town and a nearby island.

Our Captain
Our Captain
Julie and Hugh as we depart the Old Harbour
Julie and Hugh as we depart the Old Harbour

You can see the walls of the town in the background and also storage for some of the many Kayaks around there. The weather is great. The tour takes us around the walls of Dubrovnik and then around a nearby Island. Some photos from the tour.

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A popular inlet cave for Kayakers
A popular inlet cave for Kayakers
The Outskirts of Dubrovnik
The Outskirts of Dubrovnik
The Girls in the Boat
The Girls in the Boat
The Walls
The Walls

We then boat around the nearest island, photos did not work out. There was a major nudist beach there but again no photos. The Captain drops us off at the City Harbour. As we get off the boat, there is a large restaurant there where music is playing so we decide to stop there for a pizza. (I still have not had my shower for the day).

Never did figure out the name of the restaurant
Never did figure out the name of the restaurant
The Band
The Band

Turns out that the Saxophone and Bass players were in the music band of last night, maybe there are only a few musicians in town? The Piano player / singer was new. We have wine, beer, water and food.

Julie ordered a salad
Julie ordered a salad
and we had Pizza
and we had Pizza

The Band leaves, probably going to play in another venue, and we are finished so we depart too. Jan and Hugh drop off at their Hotel, where they can finally check in. Julie and I go back to our apartment.

The Watch Cat
The Watch Cat

The Cat was there virtually everyday either on the steps or right next to the steps in the sun. I am finally able to have a shower and a nap and presumably Jan and Hugh were doing the same. Julie on the other hand goes further walking around the town, some of her photos.

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It is our last night with Jan and Hugh so we agree to meet them at their Hotel, they are waiting outside. Just then a traditional Croatian wedding parade comes by with traditional costumes and singing a common song. No pictures, damn I slipped up but do a Google on “traditional croatian wedding parade” and you will be able to see some of what this is all about and Croatia’s reputation as a romantic place. Jan & Hugh take us up to their room, they have been upgraded to perhaps the best suite I have ever seen, and I have seen a lot, truly amazing. We then go to our restaurant for the evening.

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The Guys Entering Nautika
The Guys Entering Nautika
Lovely table, lovely setting, lovely weather, lovely group
Lovely table, lovely setting, lovely weather, lovely group

What more can one ask? Turns out the waiter was also great and the food and wine not too bad either.

The Old Fort in the background
The Old Fort in the background
The Selection of Fresh Fish
The Selection of Fresh Fish
A Cute Sorbet to start
A Cute Sorbet to start
Scallops for Julie and me
Scallops for Julie and me

We had had that pizza later in the day so I did not want to order too much food, otherwise I might have gone for that John Dory on the fresh fish platter. BTW: those are shaved truffles on the two outside Scallops.

An impressive salad to Jan and Hugh
An impressive salad to Jan and Hugh
Seared Tuna for Julie
Seared Tuna for Julie
Lamb Cutlets for Hugh
Lamb Cutlets for Hugh
Prawn Risotto for me
Prawn Risotto for me
The Old Fort at Sunset
The Old Fort at Sunset

Once the sun went down, it got quite cool. The restaurant had a big supply of blankets to help defeat the cool – a lot of restaurants along the coast had the same. So in the following pictures, you will see the blankets in action.

Note: all the girls at the table behind had blankets on
Note: all the girls at the table behind had blankets on
Irish Coffee for Julie
Irish Coffee for Julie
It was nice inside too
It was nice inside too
What me asleep, No Way!
What me asleep, No Way!
Our nice waiter said that the chef was offering us free fruit brandies
Our nice waiter said that the chef was offering us free fruit brandies

I think we decided that the Plum was the best and the Fig the most disappointing.

The Fruit Brandies on the Table
The Fruit Brandies on the Table

So at last the special day ends and we have to depart.

The Boys Leaving
The Boys Leaving

On the walk back, we pass the music again from last night but do not stop. Only two band members were there then. We drop Hugh and Jan off at their Hotel and it is sad goodbyes. Thus the Fellowship was finally fully broken with Frodo (Julie) and I to carry on the adventure alone.

Savor Tour Miscellanea

14-27 May, 2016 – Hungary to Croatia to Bosnia to Montenegro to Croatia

Since the Blog Posts of the Savor Tour are now finished, I have decided to put together some miscellaneous Bits in this Post. In time, it may be expanded due to inputs from the group, hopefully anyway.

Itinerary

This was the final itinerary from Savor tours. Naturally some small changes were made along the way for the actual tour.

14-day Savor Adriatic-Hungary Tour for guests_FINAL

Menus

The following are the fixed menus provided by Andrew.

May 18 Boskinac Anthony Bourdain No Reservations Dinner
Wild asparagus (seasonal) and eggs salad
Dried octopus frittata and beans salad with arugula
Lamb tripe
Lamb stew with homemade pasta ˝makaruni ˝
Baked octopus with vegetables
Selection of Pag cheese
Pairing with 5 glasses of Boškinac wine

Editorial comment: As mentioned in the Post, most of us found the Lamb Tripe to be truly revolting.

MAY 19 BOSKINAC your choice dinner
Lamb carpaccio
Suckling pig
Fresh cottage cheese cake with ice cream
OR
Shrimp salad
Fish stew “brudit”
chocolate ganache cake

MAY 21 SPLIT dinner
1st course: Olive oil tasting
– introduction to olive oil, learning the difference between good and bad oil
– tasting 3 different types of olive oil
– pairing oil with the flower of salt, aceto balsamico and homemade oven baked bread
2nd course:
– Marinated white fish
– Prawns in lemon sauce
– Olive paste
3rd course:
– Lamb skewer with spring onions and rucola
– Marinated pork neck with anise sauce
– Baked potato with rosemary and olive oil
4th course: traditional Dalmatian dessert: paradižot (floating island)

MAY 27 KORCULA Farewell dinner
– one big plate, with young and mature cheeses, dry fruits, wine grapes, almonds, nuts.
– 3 white wines
-the first wine we will suggest to guests to take young cheeses
-for the second wine we will suggest mature cheeses.
-for the third white wine we sugest home made pasta with seafruit and seabass filet
-after third wine we will serve Sorbetto from Myrtle or rosemary, to clean up PH values in mouth because now we step to red wine.
-one red wine (0,05 l per pax).
– home made macaroni with black sephia and bob beans sauce
– for dessert slice of korn bread, over which we will pour first class olive oil and desert wine. The best imaginable substitute for cake. Traditional Korčula receipe. Moisture and aroma from olive oil, sweetnes from korn bread and Desert wine.
– glass 0,1 l of sparkling wine.

Links

The following are some links provided by Andrew of places we visited:

Link to our lunch in Montenegro (village of Rvasi) that was the road from hell:

The menu at Hotel Conte in Perast where we had 2 dinners

Brkic winery in Bosnia we went to

The following are some links I have found:

Kovács Nimród Winery (KNW). KNW is situated in the Eger wine region

The Thummerer Winery

The winery of Szilvia Karádi and Zsolt Berger

WEBSITE OF GRÓF DEGENFELD CASTLE HOTEL, TOKAIJ

Tokaj Oremus Winery

Tokaj Wine Vinegar Factory and Museum

Email address for our Cooper in Erdőbénye

bock winery, restaurant, hotel Villany

Hudacsko Winery in Bodrogkisfalud

ROCA ESTATE: STONY PROSCIUTTO VILLA

Bibich Winery – Croatia

CROCUS Gere Wine Hotel in the heart of Villány

HOTEL RESTAURANT WINERY BOŠKINAC – Pag Island

CHEESE-TASTING TOUR ON THE ISLAND OF PAG

Villa Sv. Petar

Babe Winery Croatia

Alma Elezovic Bosnia – Guided Tours

Hotel Blagaj Bosnia

Cesarica Fish Restaurant, Kodor, Montenegro

restaurant kopun dubrovnik

D’vino Wine Bar Dubrovnik

fish restaurant proto dubrovnik