Torino

Monday, 26 June, 2017 – Weather cool and wet

First here is Capo’s advertisement for the day:

“We head off to the charming (it’s far better than charming!) old world city of Torino, with elegant boulevards, art galleries, porticos and nouveau café’s. This is where slow food started. Once the capitol of Italy, and the 15th century Kingdom of Savoy it’s also where aperitivi & cocktails started. We indulge in a degustation lunch at the hip Tre’ Galli ristoranti, with our table in a tiny piazza. Then we meet up late afternoon at the world’s first cocktail bar – a fabulous circa 1854 surprise!”

Yes, we are going to Turin today. We hop on the bus relatively early and make the long drive to Turin. It is a great looking city.

Large building near where the bus dropped us off

We take a long, long walk to a meeting place.

Starting the long walk
Where we are to meet after lunch/shopping
Where are lunch is to be held
The narrow lane ways abound
Our meeting place. As it is Monday, the restaurant is not open

There is a fair bit of time for wandering – read shopping. I spend most of that time sitting in a mall.

A chocolate shop near where I was sitting
Julie enters a church. Lots of photos but I have only included this one

Then it is time for lunch at Tre Galli. We have two tables outside under umbrellas, nice setting.

The Two Tables
That beer delivery truck was most interesting
as the sides elevated up

Then some things start to go wrong. Chris Love, who had been under the weather a bit, took one look at the steak tartare and felt really sick. He went upstairs for a rest and eventually caught a taxi back to home base.

Then it started raining. It was supposed to just be a summer shower according to the waitress but it was not lasting and getting worse most of the day. People at the end of our table are getting wet. Shuffling of seats and tables does not really help. Eventually Nola moves to a small table inside. Eric moves down there too. Any way the food comes.

Steak Tartare with an Anchovie on top
Our Wine
The Place Setting
Saffron Risotto with Prawns
The next table
Octopus – normally I like it but did not grab me today

Tony and Eileen had never had raw meat or octopus before. Thus the meal was challenging for them but they did OK.

Dessert
Lots of glasses
Our restaurant

We took the long walk back to the meeting place. Of course it was in pouring rain and none of us were prepared with it. I was in a school with Eric and Lola. Eric stopped in a pen shop, a watch shop, a smoke shop, a t-shirt shop, etc before I gave up and went to the meeting place.

Susan with treasures. Note the wet hair
Eric and his goodies

We all get to the meeting place but two girls did not show up until much very late. Ben goes looking for them and all in all we are much later than expected to get to our next stop. Capo leads us through and across, again in the pouring rain – especially when we walk under some scaffolding. There is lots of lightning and thunder with a couple blasts very near the glass dome of our building, very loud.

We finally arrive at the famous bar where the Martini was invented.

Entering the bar

The Long Bar
More than just cocktails
We finally get enough tables for the lot of us

We all order unique drinks from the cocktail list.

Grasshopper for Eileen
Bloody Mary for me, not spicy enough
The Group with their drinks. Note lots of food provided as per normal in Italian bars

Then it is the long, long walk back to the bus in the pouring rain. Then the long drive back to home base. When we get there I am slowly unpeeling the wet clothes when Julie says to come quick as there is to be a tour of the wine cellar.

Wine – there are over 6,000 bottles
In a side room
Charicatures of some famous local wine people

We were supposed to have picked up pizzas for the night’s supper but somehow a vote was taken without considering those opposed to that notion, and many of us are quite disappointed. As a result, we are back at the Hotel with the kitchen closed. Sweet Jane brings out some cold cuts that along with the guys’ salami and our individual wines brings us some comfort. Thus ends a very busy day.

A lot of us would have liked to have spent more time in Turin. We did not even consider the shroud. Some thought that maybe our next destination could have been swapped out for 3 nights in Turin. We may try to go there again in the future.

Busy day around Piedmont

Sunday, 25 June, 2017 – Weather fine and nice

Today we have four activities around the area. But first get ready for the day.

the shower head is at the top of the top floor while the base is at the bottom floor

We proceed to the breakfast place.

Fluffy the assistant desk clerk

The breakfast buffet is a pretty good spread of cold foods.

the breakfast buffet

However, Julie points out that there is:

special omelet of ham, cheese and cherry tomatoes

We jump in the bus, later than wanted, and our first activity is a Truffle hunt lead by the region’s best truffle man and his dog Roki, scouring the forest for the world’s most expensive food ingredient (second actually as saffron beats it easily for cost).

Starting out on the truffle hunt, Roki is loved by all
an unusual way of protecting grapes from birds
looking back to the town of La Morra
our main truffle hunter
his assistant and Roki the wonder dog

It is a long walk through hill and dale and scrub. Nola and myself suffer with walking on that terrain. But it is worth it because Roki performs.

Roki finding the first Truffle
a Black Truffle

In all, five truffles were found, one of which was no good. Not a bad effort and better than we had done in Slovenia a few years ago. Nola and I are still suffering for the walk and had been given the leaders’ canes which helped a bit but on the walk back they decided that we would ride back in the car.

sharing the car with Roki
in the van, feet hanging out the back
with Roki

We were supposed to have a truffle tasting at the end of the hunt but the late start meant we had to get on the road to our next appointment a midday Guided Tour of the Barolo Castello, a wine museum. So we drive to Barolo.

in the town of Barolo

There is a fast food market in the city square but we really don’t have enough time now for anything serious.

some got Gelatos

We meet our tour guide and go up to the top floor, outside where she explains a lot of what is going on in the museum. There are three floors each with a different theme. To be honest, most of us did not care for the museum which had some strange exhibits. The guide, lady, was difficult to understand. So just a couple of photos from inside.

some of the past heroes of wine

Old Barrels

There was one humourous incident inside. There was some kind of small merry-go-round which was driven by bicycle type pedals. Chris Love and Julie were the propellers and it was going so fast, Julie eventually tried to slow it down by peddling backwards, that did not work.

We exit the museum and have some time for food. We go into the square where there is the fast food market.

the stall from which I got my food
the adjacent stall
Spanish stall looked interesting but there was no one there
my chicken roll, no not a Chiko Roll

We moved over to a table near the beer stand where some of the others are sitting. I grab a beer.

Gavin and a burger
a Ducati, a major part of Julie’s latest Oxford study
proof of Julie’s intense study
many of the group had gone to a restaurant near the bus stop

We then drive to a local winery in Barolo. The Host is very knowledgeable and friendly.

map of the Barolo wine area and our Host

The Host shows us 4 different wines, the last being an Australian type blend. Then it is time for a helicopter ride. There are 5 groups of 4, we are the first group. I did not get a photo of the chopper but took lots in the air. Here are some.

over the many vineyards

town of La Morra

coming in to land

That was a lot of fun even though I could not hear the pilot through my headphones. We await the other 4 groups and then drive back to the base. Most everybody, including me, jump in the pool and generally yahoo around. Lots of gin and tonics, beers, white wine, etc. The girls do some singing which leaves a little bit to be desired.

Dinner that night is at the Hotel with Capo booking 7 tables of two. In fact, there are 8 tables.

on the patio

Gazpacho for Julie
Quail for me
Rabbit main course for me
sardines for Julie
Cheese main course for Julie

Good food. Then it is off to bed after a very busy day.

Travel to Piedmont area

Saturday, 24 June, 2017 – Weather Warm but better

Julie goes off for a walk to the market. The official group walk also goes there and Julie connects with them. Meanwhile I stay at the Hotel to work on the Blog since the Internet reception is so good. Some photos from Julie.

Cherries everywhere

Capo buys some sardines which many get into including Julie. This is a surprise for me as she had gotten quite sick with the sardines on our last trip to Spain.

Sardines with Lemon bought by Julie added
Tony Scarfing down a Sardine

Capo in the market
Burgers

We catch the bus which is a new one and much smaller for the hills we would eventually meet. A new driver too. It is quite a long drive to Piedmont so we stop for a toilet break and panini. There is absolute chaos in the Autostop with people everywhere, service very spotty etc.

The fine dinng at the truck stop

We continue along to the west side of Italy (3 hours) to La Morra in Piedmont staying in the Hotel Palas Cerequio. Five of the guys stay in another place because ours is not big enough for our entire group. The Palas is a blend of very old buildings which have been modernized and some new modern buildings. Quite stunning really with magnificent views over the vineyards.

Arriving at Palas Cerequio

Our room is by the pool and it is a two level place with the top floor being the bedroom and toilet / washroom and the bottom floor the work area, spa, shower. It is slightly inconvenient that the toilet is upstairs as most of the time is spent downstairs.

the downstairs shower
the upstairs bed, all very nice
a view of the pool from our front door
looking over the rolling hills and vineyards

Most of the guys jump into the pool. I go there too but still in my street clothes. There are a fair number of snacks and drinks.

the pool in action

There is no water in the town. It does not come on until around 10:00 that night. Capo wanted us to dress up but the girls were saying they wouldn’t dress up without a shower. They did anyway.

the spiffy troops waiting to go
the old Castle on the hill and more vines

Chris Love had told us on the bus coming up about his many experiences in Piedmont and why it was one of his favourite places. This included our restaurant for tonight Ristorante Bovio.

our menu
an extra, stuffed Zucchini Flowers
Veal Tonnato with Tuna sauce, one of the best I have had
Porcini Mushroom Tart and cheese fondue, many peoples favourite
Risotto with Porcini mushrooms
Big Ravioli with Egg and Black Truffle – not for me with a raw egg inside
the Troops on the balcony. Colin and Sigrid were at a table inside
Risotto with Porcini mushrooms
Hand made ravioli filled with Beef and Vegies and Beef sauce (very good)
Braised beef in Barolo sauce
Guinea Fowl with Black Truffles and Potato fondue, a little disappointing.

There is a lot of discussion about Gavin and Margret – although they had been married 39 years he had never properly proposed. So he did then. I thought Margaret said No but I guess not. In any case, Susan sang two love songs including my suggestion of Its Now or Never.

Dessert – three typical
Cheese Platter
Capo with our wines.

Then it is on the bus back to the home bases. It is after midnight which has an effect on our starting time tomorrow. The good news is that the water is back on.

Cheese, Church and Chow

Friday, 23 June,2017 – Weather: Stinking Hot

Everything has gone wrong so far concerning the cheese factory visit. But we are on the bus early for an appointment today. Well, things continue to go wrong as there are two addresses and we go to the wrong one. We could just see our appointment being cancelled because of our lateness but when we get there a guide is waiting for us.

Our guide

We had to cover our hair and feet for cleanliness reasons.

Cutie with hair bonnet
The Troops Kitted up and Ready to Go

We are here to learn about the making of Parmigiano Reggiano – a premium cheese.

The milk is first poured into these copper tanks
The milk starting to curdle into cheese
This belt is put around the rounds to imprnt logos and messages without ink
The rounds are soaked in plain water for an extended period
and placed into these metal rounds
Lots of cheese soaking
Lots of cheeses – worth around e500 each
Funny robot thing which goes along one round at a time, extracts it, shakes/compresses the round and then puts it back
Finished Product

We go back to the first point where the process continues initially breaking up the curds.

The Tool
Further along in the process

We ditch our exotic slippers and bonnets. We are given some finished product to taste – very nice but I find quite rich. We then go out to the main shop to exit.

[Caption id=”attachment_5996″ align=”alignleft” width=”520″] Cheeses for sale[/caption]

They sell other kinds of cheeses and products, not just PR
Including wines
I did not hear why St George and the Dragon were so important
Close up of final markings

So we end our interesting cheese factory tour. We hop in the bus and drive to Ravenna – around 2 hours. Our first port of call is the magnificent Cathedral in Ravenna. For those who know me well, cathedrals are not my scene, right Peter?, so the following photos are from Julie. First a couple of impressive glasswork.

Then into the Cathedral.

Enough of that scheiss. This is a food and wine blog after all. From there we walk the 4/5 blocks, more like 2 KM, to our restaurant.

Entering our very old restaurant Ca De’ Ven

Food starts coming. Capo calls it nosh, I am calling it Chow.

Under the famous barrels
Rooster Salad
Worm Pasta with Pesto
Our Red
Our Red
Steak and Potatoes
Dessert

Then it is back on the bus to return to home base. It is still very hot. When we get back, Julie does a lot of study while I Blog. Eventually we decide to get something to eat. We walk a ways in the heat and I shortly decide I would not go on further. Julie continues on and I go to the local Chinese for, wait for it, some Chow food.

Curried Chicken and Rice
and Beer

It was a low cost meal and I paid for what I got. In the mean time Julie has gone into the centre where a food festival is on. The following are some of her photos.

Umbrellas
Mexican
What a grill
Malaysian Satay

The Burgers
Que?

The Scene
The Crowd
On the way back
The Events

Eventually Julie returned and we hit the sack. We did not sleep very well as the air conditioning was not working. Turns out that was because we had a window open and there is an interlock.

Violins

Thursday, 22 June – continued

Whereas it was a relatively quiet day for me, others had more enterprise. This included:

* Amani Factory visit as already mentioned
* Enzo Ferrari Museum visit
* Luciano Pavarotti Theatre visit

and then there was Julie.

Julie at the Market – that is Smoked Salmon in the roll
Julie’s new friends
This guy is a world famous Violin repairer and designer
Julie was taken up to his shop / studio
He is known for his one piece of wood bases
A famous Violin

More Violins

Julie departed that unusual experience but learned also that Pavarotti’s house was very nearby.

Pav and Dino photos

In the Pavorotti Theatre
A Chair Made of Bottlecaps