Not so gay Paree

Thursday, 9 July, 2015

It is early morning in Dijon and we must leave for Paris later on. It is a market day, so we go into the market. However, it seems nothing starts early in France.

Some stalls were open
Some stalls were open
But most were not
But most were not

We go out the back of the market, see photo from yesterday, and go to a place across the street from where we had a drink yesterday.

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A decent serve of Ham and Eggs and bread
A decent serve of Ham and Eggs and bread
and pressed OJ and coffee
and pressed OJ and coffee

We walk back to the apartment going through the market which has some more stalls open.

Ducks
Ducks
Meats
Meats
The street in front of our apartment place
The street in front of our apartment place
Our Hotel, circa 1777
Our Hotel, circa 1777

Let me say a bit more about the apartment. It was not quite as big as the one in Lyon but did have the second bedroom for our suitcases. It was modernly fitted out. Once the Internet was fixed it worked well. Good location near the market and restaurants. Would definitely recommend the apartment.

https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/4221653

We pack up and move out to the train station. A bit of a walk but it is a very nice day. The wait at the station is not too long and then we are on our train to Paris. This time reserved seats. Again it is quite a pleasant journey through the countryside and in about 90 minutes we are in Paris at Gare du Lyon.

Then things started going wrong. We had done some study about Reduced Mobility Accessibility stations in Paris, because of my back issues, and the one that was closest to our apartment was not in the list. So there was another one about 15 minutes away and we decided that we would take the line to there as it would also be a good jump off point when we were to leave in 2 days time.

Gare du Lyon was fine with escalators getting us to the correct Metro line. I had left over tickets from last time in Paris so everything was great. WRONG. When we got to the destination station, we went out the wrong exit. This then lead to a whole bunch of stairs to go up and I had no choice but to carry the suitcase up them. Fortunately, I did not cause myself any damage. Julie had prepared appropriate maps – hand drawn and Google Maps but because we had gone out the wrong way, we could not get our bearings. I sat in a McDonalds for about 45 minutes while Julie tired to use their Internet to get located. We go out and start in the right direction but things are not working out. We have walked for about 60 minutes, of a 15 minute walk, and there is still no sign of where we are going. I notice that I have concerned messages from the Apartment owners and their friends who are there to let us in. Finally, we grab a taxi. This takes quite a while too since the one way streets in Paris mean that there is no direct way there. Finally, we reach the apartment building and with help from their friend get up to the third floor, there was a lift, and the apartment. The couple who had let us in were really nice, as it also appeared that the owners were really nice too.

Sadly, we could not say the same about the apartment. It was quite primitive, fine for a young couple starting out but not so good for us older folks. Plus the apartment was nowhere clean enough for our standards and they were smokers which meant that smell in the air. From my point of view the Internet worked well but there was no desk or table that I could use to access it. Yuk all the way around.

Any way, Julie goes prancing, as usual, while I hang around being somewhat tired from lugging the suitcases around. The heat wave had gone but it was still quite warm. When Julie comes back, she has found a nice restaurant for that evening and made a reservation, which turned out to be a really good idea. We go there at around 7:00, which is very early for Paris, and have a nice table outside.

The Menu
The Menu
The Wine List
The Wine List
We sit next to a Mother and Daughter from Denmark, nice people
We sit next to a Mother and Daughter from Denmark, nice people
Julie started with a Caeser's Salad, nice fig
Julie started with a Caeser’s Salad, nice fig
From which I scored all the Ham
From which I scored all the Ham
Seafood Stew for Julie
Seafood Stew for Julie
Duck for me
Duck for me

There were quite a number of people waiting for tables, most wanted to be outside. Some waited for well over an hour, not my scene.

Amazing seafood on the way home
Amazing seafood on the way home

We stopped at another bar on the way back for a drink.

Irish Coffee for Julie
Irish Coffee for Julie

Hot Mustard

Tuesday, 7 July, 2015

This morning we are to leave Lyon. We get up early and it is still hot, hot. We go to Cafe du Marche again for breakfast and Julie has her rillette of Salmon again. I order a croissant but am brought a charcuterie plate instead which we send back. I eventually get the croissant and have my ham from the market with it. We walk back through the market which today was a food market but because it was early, by French standards, it was only partially set-up.

Back to the apartment to finish packing. Odile and husband come by to help us carry the suitcases down the stairs. She has also ordered a taxi for us. An absolutely delightful person and we enjoyed the stay in spite of the very hot weather. Highly recommended.

https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/3517871

The weather is still very hot, although not too bad early in the morning. I had been going to walk the suitcases over to the train station but Julie convinced me it was too hot so we took the taxi that Odile had ordered. The train station was unexceptional and we had a bit of a wait until the platform was announced. We get on the train and it is a real pleasure because – well it is air conditioned! Julie manages to snaffle us a compartment for 6 with our bags and just us.

In the train compartment
In the train compartment

So what is the title of this post about? We are headed to Dijon and the weather is still stinking hot! It is a pleasant train ride through the countryside of Burgundy, Beaune is the previous stop before Dijon. We are going to be early so we have a drink at the Dijon train station in an air conditioned cafe. We walk to the apartment which was quite an achievement by Julie as the streets of Dijon are not straight and there were a few turns to make along the way. We get some supplies and get directly to the place of lodging. It is a massive old hotel that has been converted to apartments. There is some trouble getting through the big door but some kids let us in.

The courtyard
The courtyard

There is also some problems connecting with Elisabeth once we get inside the courtyard but she comes out and finds us.

Our apartment is the white door on the left, ground floor
Our apartment is the white door on the left, ground floor

Elisabeth really only speaks French and we do not so there are some communications problems but they get sorted out quickly. The living area is smaller than our place in Lyon but there is a second bedroom where the suitcases can be opened up. The place is quite modern inside. But there is one trouble, the Internet does not work with a strange error message. Later we get a call from Elisabeth’s daughter to say some one will come to fix it at 7:00. For me it is time for a nap, for Julie time to prance around Dijon.

We are to go out to a Michelin Star restaurant and our booking is for 7:30 and it is somewhat of a walk. But the lady to fix the Internet shows up on time, early even, and quickly solves our troubles by moving the router from a phone plug in the front room to one in the second bedroom and it is all working fine. So we head out to our restaurant.

Restaurant Stephane Derboard
Restaurant Stephane Derboard
Julie Entering
Julie Entering

We are the first one’s at the restaurant, it eventually got quite full but people start later in France. We are put in a small room out the back.

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Very impressive starter before we have ordered anything
Very impressive starter before we have ordered anything

We go for the Gourmet, Food-lover menu

http://www.restaurantstephanederbord.fr/en/menus.html

Very impressive 3 seasonal starters
Very impressive 3 seasonal starters
Julie has gone for the Pan-Fried Medallions of Duck Foie Gras for her first course
Julie has gone for the Pan-Fried Medallions of Duck Foie Gras for her first course
Whereas, I go for the Frog's  Legs, much nicer than the ones in Lyon the day before
Whereas, I go for the Frog’s Legs, much nicer than the ones in Lyon the day before
Julie's Main course of Grilled Red Label Mature Charolais Beef Fillet
Julie’s Main course of Grilled Red Label Mature Charolais Beef Fillet
Pigeon for me
Pigeon for me
The Spuds were nice too
The Spuds were nice too
Our wine from the huge cellar
Our wine from the huge cellar
Irish Coffee for JV
Irish Coffee for JV
Desserts - also impressive, but not for me
Desserts – also impressive, but not for me
The Menus - the bigger one is the Wine List
The Menus – the bigger one is the Wine List
Stephane Derboard in the kitchen
Stephane Derboard in the kitchen
Julie and Stephane's Wife Isobel
Julie and Stephane’s Wife Isobel

A very impressive restaurant and meal. We get a taxi back to avoid the long walk. A cooler change is coming in and very welcome.

Holy Smoke

2 June, 2015 – Wimbledon

Our first foodie adventure is to Wimbledon to a restaurant called Holy Smoke. It has only been open for 3 1/2 months but has leapt up the Trip Advisor ratings to be #3 in London currently.

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g186338-d7697088-Reviews-Holy_Smoke-London_England.html

Before we get there there are more travel adventures just like the rest of the day. The train rides are straightforward – Moorgate to Edgeware Road on the Circle Line and then Edgeware Road to the end of the District Line at Wimbledon. I have detailed instructions on how to find the place but they fail at the first step when we cannot find the first street. We walk around in circles for a while and eventually see that street. But the instructions imply that we should turn left from there which puts us back where we came from and we continue to walk around in circles. JV finds a local who sends us on our way and lo and behold we end up back where we were before. We continue on to what would have been a right turn and walk a fair ways more. We seek help along the way from other locals that indicates to us that we should continue on. Finally, while JV is talking with a worker, I spot an old street sign in stone for Leopold Street. We walk up and finally find the restaurant.

Typical Patrick photo
Typical Patrick photo

We are relieved to finally make it there after at least 30 minutes of walking in uncomfortable shoes. And then we are glad that we are there as Cam the owner seems to be a really good guy who does a lot of experimentation with Smoking of foods as you will see below. Of course I do a lot of smoking too so there are interesting conversations. Any way, here is the menu for today. You have to click the link and it will down load to your computer.

Menu 28 May_2

Or here is the unformatted text if you can’t be bothered with the down load.

holy smoke
28 May 2015
Starters
Home smoked Scottish salmon, lavender infused mead, spring onion 7.50
Smoked duck salad, apple, nori and mixed greens, whole-grain mustard dressing 7.50
Grilled baby calamari, red pepper and herb salad, Nam Jim dressing and toasted cashews
7.00
Char-grilled new seasons asparagus, braised girolle and leek, lemon-asparagus cream,
herb poached quail egg 7.50
Slow braised breast of lamb, pea shoot and citrus salad, mint and lime pearls 7.00
Mezcal flamed giant and king prawns with papaya, honey, chilli, and fresh lime 10.50
Main Courses
The Holy Smoke hand chopped steak burger, smoked cheddar & Monterey Jack, tomato
salsa, chipotle mayo and smokey frites 13.50
Confit pork belly, sweet potato mash, soy, ginger, chilli and honey drizzle, home-pickled
vegetables 15.00
Oak smoked leg of duck, pan roasted breast, dauphinoise potatoes, sugar-snap peas,
cherry and orange jus 21.50
Lapsang souchong and sake steamed loin of Atlantic cod, pak choi and shiitake,
chilli-grapefruit vinaigrette 18.50
Aubergine, sundried tomato and maple-smoked mozzarella “Saltimbocca”, grilled polenta,
fresh tomato and basil coulis 12.00
We do not levy a service charge. All tips go directly to the staff member tipped unless
specifically requested otherwise.
holy smoke
28 May 2015
Desserts
Triple chocolate brownie, salted caramel ice cream, Bourbon fudge sauce 5.50
Bruschetta of fresh strawberries, balsamic, fresh basil and black pepper on toasted brioche
with mascarpone 6.50
Vanilla scented duck-egg creme brulee, Rumbullion shortbread 5.00
White chocolate and rose mousse with lavender and rosemary creme anglaise,
honey-lemon caviar 7.50
The Lighter Lunch
(in addition to the main menu)
Tuesday to Saturday, 12 noon to 3pm
Steak frites. 6oz flat iron steak, tomato and herb butter, shoestring fries,
rocket salad – best served rare
or
The pulled pork sandwich. Slow roasted pork in duck and cola liquor, served in a
brioche bun with monterey jack cheese, spicy slaw and paprika fries.
or
Herb roasted chicken, sun-dried tomato mash, basil pesto, leaf salad and sticky
balsamic
Each £10.00 with a small glass of house wine, a bottle of Efes Pilsener or a soft
drink
We do not levy a service charge. All tips go directly to the staff member tipped unless
specifically requested otherwise.

Smoked bread from Cam
Smoked bread from Cam

Naturally Julie orders for her first course:

Smoked Salmon for JV
Smoked Salmon for JV

I ordered the Smoked Duck salad for my starter, no picture sadly. Very nice it was, Duck smoked with Oak. I don’t use Oak very often, maybe I need to rethink that in the future.

Atlantic Cod with Asian vegetables for JV's main course
Atlantic Cod with Asian vegetables for JV’s main course
Smoked Burger for main for me. Note that the fries were also smoked and very nice
Smoked Burger for main for me. Note that the fries were also smoked and very nice
Smoked Wine for JV
Smoked Wine for JV
Ever heard of Smoked Irish Coffee? We have now.
Ever heard of Smoked Irish Coffee? We have now.

A delightful meal and evening. Cam was a great host and brought us extras all along the way. Not particularly expensive either. Highly recommended.