Onto Switzerland

Saturday, 11 June,2015

We leave the apartment early to head to the train station and then CDG. Although not flying Turkish, we are still spooked by CDG so we get away very early. It is a short walk to our nearest train station and lugging the luggage down a few stairs was not too bad. The only thing that goes wrong is when we are going through the turnstiles, Julie pulls my suitcase through and leaves me behind. I am stuck between the turnstile and the big barrier gates. I have used up all my spare Metro tickets so will I be stuck there forever? At last a local comes by with a season path and after instructing me to do something, in French so I could not understand it, he eventually gets me and him through the gates.

It is a short ride on the Metro to Gare du Nord and from there a very easy transfer to the RER that goes to CDG. It turns out to be a direct “flight”. We had heard from the Authorities about all the pickpockets and bag snatchers at Gare du Nord and on the RER train but I guess it must have been too early in the morning for them. We arrive at CDG “Terminal 1” but we already knew after our experience of nearly 3 weeks ago that we would be at Terminal 3. Being well practised, we get on the Shuttle to Terminal 1. Swiss Air check-in goes well, we are in Business Class the rest of the way home. They send us to the Lounge but the way is blocked and we discover we have to go through that horrible Immigration line again. This time of day it is very short so we go through and then find the lifts to the Lounge. It is actually quite good and has a decent small omelet as well as other facilities. They said that we needed an hour to get to our departure gate and we wondered why. Well, they send us the totally wrong way, a long walk and then another Immigration gate, looking like we were entering France again. The wait was not too long, but why was it required? After passing through there is another long walk back towards the Security and then the departure gates. Without saying too much more, I don’t really like CDG although it has improved from a few years before and I can’t necessarily blame CDG for the Turkish Airlines stuff up – but CDG is still not my favourite.

Eventually we board the Swiss flight. It is smooth enough while the food is unexceptional for Business Class. There is a very nice German Stewardess that chats with us for most of the flight. We land at Zurich airport and what a difference – no Immigration, no Customs – just straight through. Our priority bags get off OK and the train to Central Zurich is very efficient and fast.

Our Hostess for our apartment, the wonderful Zina, had given us very detailed instructions on how to find the apartment in Zurich Old Town. The only trouble was, and pretty much the same as in Paris, there was detail missing on the very first step. We were to go out the exit to the tram line to ride up to where we were to get off. However, there were at least three exits from the train station and only one of them worked. We went to the information booth, but the queue there was at least 100 people long so we set out ourselves. Of course, we went out the wrong way and nearly headed in the totally wrong direction. A good thing, Julie found a helpful Swiss guy who pointed us in the right direction. We had decided in advance we would walk the suitcases instead of taking a tram and it was an OK walk and the weather was beautiful.

At the destination end, the directions were absolutely perfect and we could not fail to find the apartment building. We had some troubles with the keylock but the problems were our klutziness, not the directions. Zina came down, Julie may have buzzed her other apartment where she lived, and helped us get the key and then up to the apartment. It was so much better than the last place in Paris with one large room that was very clean and had lots of the facilities we wanted including a large desk for the Internet use which turned out to be quite fast. Zina showed us everything, a delightful person and I recommend both her and the apartment highly.

https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/3382719

The only problem that I had was that she had added a Futon, or the equivalent, and that effectively meant sleeping very close to the floor. An old decrepit, Senior citizen like me had some trouble getting out of bed. Any way, Julie goes out prancing and I do Blogging and resting work.

One of Julie’s goals in coming to Switzerland was to get one of their special Pressure Cookers. As we have learned that all the shops will be closed tomorrow, being Sunday, I suggest that she pick one up today which she does as she demonstrates when she finally returns. What’s more, Julie has an innovative idea for dinner for us. This is to go to one of the Department stores which has a large food hall with a number of dining areas much like David Jones in Melbourne but much larger.

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We eventually settle into this food bar which is serving Swiss / German / international fare
We eventually settle into this food bar which is serving Swiss / German / international fare
I order a Bratwurst which is actually quite a bit bigger than it looks in this photo
I order a Bratwurst which is actually quite a bit bigger than it looks in this photo
Chips were nice
Chips were nice

Julie had ordered a Caesar salad with Salmon. I watched in alarm as the cook cut-up a Chicken fillet to put on it. I think our server recognised it and immediately took it back to the cook who was horribly chagrined at his mistake. He put on a piece of Salmon for a replacement. I was concerned that it was on the grill way too long, but he did get it right.

The Salmon Caesar Salad
The Salmon Caesar Salad

At the end of the meal, Julie said to the server that She wanted an Irish Coffee. The server, who was an absolutely delightful girl, originally from Guatemala, said they did not have that but then disappeared for quite a while to see what she could do. Eventually, after going to several of the different serving areas in the Food Hall, she cam back with this:

An Iced Irish Coffee
An Iced Irish Coffee

We walk around the store to get some supplies.

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We gather our purchases and walk back to the flat. Julie decides to take a circuitous route. Along the way there is a cacophony of all the church bells in the area sounding.

Note the time: it won't be dark for at least another 3 hours
Note the time: it won’t be dark for at least another 3 hours
Back near home
Back near home

Last Tango In Paris?

Friday, 10 July, 2015

We get out of the apartment relatively early to go find some place to eat. Naturally, Julie has been looking for her favourite food so this is where we end up.

Where else?
Where else?

The shop also has a restaurant attached to it but it won’t be open for another hour or so. We decide to go to a cafe diagonally opposite for a coffee and pressed juice.

The salmon restaurant
The salmon restaurant

The cafe did not really have anything we would like to eat so Julie went wandering off and got some ham at one place, some salmon from the shop and then some pre-made baguettes. We added our bought ham / salmon and had a pretty decent snack. After a while, we start wandering off to an unknown, to me, destination. I took a few shots of places that grabbed me along the way.

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Love the URL
Love the URL

One of the side effects from yesterday’s lost wanderings is that there is a shop that we “must go to” that she saw along the way.

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I sat outside on that bench for 45 minutes or so after she disappeared inside. Finally, she comes out.

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I had had enough and was even willing to sit in our apartment for the rest of the day rather than putting up with more shopping. Some shots along the way back.

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We had heard that this was a bikie area
We had heard that this was a bikie area

Julie goes out prancing, of course, leaving me to try to do Blogging in the uncomfortable environment. She returns around 4:00 PM and suggest we go for a drink at another nearby restaurant. Sounds like a good idea so off we go. It is a short walk.

Le petit marche
Le petit marche

We have a bottle of Rose in the seats out the front and watch the world go by. There is a major police station across the street and the comings and going from there are interesting. Also it is a day for rubbish pick up and there are amusing sites of people moving their bins to various other places around. My guess is that they were not paying the rubbish collection rates but getting it collected elsewhere.

We decide we may as well have dinner there but it won’t start until 7:30. We make a reservation but they won’t reserve the outside seats as they are very popular. We get back to the restaurant at 7:30 and all of the outside seats are taken.

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We are seated at a table just inside the door but as we are about to order we are asked to move to another one because someone special had wanted our table. Were we not special enough after spending much of the afternoon there? Slightly miffed, but the table was OK and we sat next to a nice couple from Alabama.

The Wine
The Wine
Duck with banana figs
Duck with banana figs

That was the dish title according to Google translate which obviously did not do a great job here.

Salmon salad for Julie
Salmon salad for Julie
Mash was nice
Mash was nice
Potted Salmon for Julie
Potted Salmon for Julie

The food was pretty good. We go back to the apartment because we have an early start the next day.

http://www.gastrochic.com/2011/food/le-petit-marche-paris/

So what is this Post headline about? I don’t know, the last two times in Paris have not been that great. At this stage, we much prefer Lyon. If we do come back we will probably stay in another area and certainly in a higher class apartment / hotel. Life is too short.

Around Dijon

Wednesday, 8 July, 2015

It is clear that we are getting near the end of the long trip as we have much lesser ambitions than earlier. We go out in the morning to get something for breakfast. We are in a good area around the Dijon market where there are a number of restaurants. We pick one and get a pressed juice and coffee each. We wanted some baguette but the lady said “the delivery of the bread was away” or something like that and have a croissant instead with our ham and smoked salmon we picked up yesterday.

We go back to the apartment and then Julie goes out prancing around town. I take advantage of the fixed Internet to do some blogging, etc. as well as time for more naps. Eventually in mid-afternoon Julie comes back and suggest that we go out for an afternoon drink.

At the big front door of the courtyard
At the big front door of the courtyard
The Famous Mustard Shop
The Famous Mustard Shop

So we go to the back of the market, which was not open today, and select a place on the street. There are a number of restaurants available and they are all just about full.

Across the street from our location
Across the street from our location
Our spot
Our spot
Back of the market. Supposedly designed by the architect who designed the Eiffel Tower
Back of the market. Supposedly designed by the architect who designed the Eiffel Tower

It is near dinner time so we walk around the market and look at all of the restaurants. Julie earlier had her eye on this “American steak place” and that is where we ended up.

Lots of rawhide everywhere including the chairs
Lots of rawhide everywhere including the chairs

We get there too early, i.e. before 7:00 but they allow us to enter and order drinks. Finally, after 7:00 they take our order.

Julie has a chicken Caesar salad to start
Julie has a chicken Caesar salad to start
I order Steak and Chips. The latter were good, the former was not
I order Steak and Chips. The latter were good, the former was not
Salmon for Julie. Over cooked in spite of having asked for it rare
Salmon for Julie. Over cooked in spite of having asked for it rare

Julie asks for an Irish Coffee but no, no, no. So we go back to the apartment and bed. We leave Dijon tomorrow morning.

Hot Mustard

Tuesday, 7 July, 2015

This morning we are to leave Lyon. We get up early and it is still hot, hot. We go to Cafe du Marche again for breakfast and Julie has her rillette of Salmon again. I order a croissant but am brought a charcuterie plate instead which we send back. I eventually get the croissant and have my ham from the market with it. We walk back through the market which today was a food market but because it was early, by French standards, it was only partially set-up.

Back to the apartment to finish packing. Odile and husband come by to help us carry the suitcases down the stairs. She has also ordered a taxi for us. An absolutely delightful person and we enjoyed the stay in spite of the very hot weather. Highly recommended.

https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/3517871

The weather is still very hot, although not too bad early in the morning. I had been going to walk the suitcases over to the train station but Julie convinced me it was too hot so we took the taxi that Odile had ordered. The train station was unexceptional and we had a bit of a wait until the platform was announced. We get on the train and it is a real pleasure because – well it is air conditioned! Julie manages to snaffle us a compartment for 6 with our bags and just us.

In the train compartment
In the train compartment

So what is the title of this post about? We are headed to Dijon and the weather is still stinking hot! It is a pleasant train ride through the countryside of Burgundy, Beaune is the previous stop before Dijon. We are going to be early so we have a drink at the Dijon train station in an air conditioned cafe. We walk to the apartment which was quite an achievement by Julie as the streets of Dijon are not straight and there were a few turns to make along the way. We get some supplies and get directly to the place of lodging. It is a massive old hotel that has been converted to apartments. There is some trouble getting through the big door but some kids let us in.

The courtyard
The courtyard

There is also some problems connecting with Elisabeth once we get inside the courtyard but she comes out and finds us.

Our apartment is the white door on the left, ground floor
Our apartment is the white door on the left, ground floor

Elisabeth really only speaks French and we do not so there are some communications problems but they get sorted out quickly. The living area is smaller than our place in Lyon but there is a second bedroom where the suitcases can be opened up. The place is quite modern inside. But there is one trouble, the Internet does not work with a strange error message. Later we get a call from Elisabeth’s daughter to say some one will come to fix it at 7:00. For me it is time for a nap, for Julie time to prance around Dijon.

We are to go out to a Michelin Star restaurant and our booking is for 7:30 and it is somewhat of a walk. But the lady to fix the Internet shows up on time, early even, and quickly solves our troubles by moving the router from a phone plug in the front room to one in the second bedroom and it is all working fine. So we head out to our restaurant.

Restaurant Stephane Derboard
Restaurant Stephane Derboard
Julie Entering
Julie Entering

We are the first one’s at the restaurant, it eventually got quite full but people start later in France. We are put in a small room out the back.

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Very impressive starter before we have ordered anything
Very impressive starter before we have ordered anything

We go for the Gourmet, Food-lover menu

http://www.restaurantstephanederbord.fr/en/menus.html

Very impressive 3 seasonal starters
Very impressive 3 seasonal starters
Julie has gone for the Pan-Fried Medallions of Duck Foie Gras for her first course
Julie has gone for the Pan-Fried Medallions of Duck Foie Gras for her first course
Whereas, I go for the Frog's  Legs, much nicer than the ones in Lyon the day before
Whereas, I go for the Frog’s Legs, much nicer than the ones in Lyon the day before
Julie's Main course of Grilled Red Label Mature Charolais Beef Fillet
Julie’s Main course of Grilled Red Label Mature Charolais Beef Fillet
Pigeon for me
Pigeon for me
The Spuds were nice too
The Spuds were nice too
Our wine from the huge cellar
Our wine from the huge cellar
Irish Coffee for JV
Irish Coffee for JV
Desserts - also impressive, but not for me
Desserts – also impressive, but not for me
The Menus - the bigger one is the Wine List
The Menus – the bigger one is the Wine List
Stephane Derboard in the kitchen
Stephane Derboard in the kitchen
Julie and Stephane's Wife Isobel
Julie and Stephane’s Wife Isobel

A very impressive restaurant and meal. We get a taxi back to avoid the long walk. A cooler change is coming in and very welcome.

Lunch in Lyon

Monday, 6 July, 2015

Four years ago we had an absolutely wonderful lunch at a Bouchon called Le Garet. So we asked Odile to make a reservation for us for lunch today.

We start out at Cafe du Marche again. Ordered croissants again along with coffee and pressed orange juice. I had some ham with mine, Julie smoked salmon. We then walk back through the market but it is a bitter disappointment to me as today it is clothes and assorted handicraps. Worse, as we reached the end of the first part, Julie asks me to wait as she tours the second half of the market. Sitting there waiting for ages in the heat was not my idea of fun.

Looking back at t he market
Looking back at t he market

Later we start our walk to Le Garet. We are supposed to arrive between 12:30 and 1:00 PM or else they will ock the door on us. In fact, I think we arrived a bit before 12:30 and there were several others already there. We did not see them lock the door at 1:00 either.

Arriving
Arriving
Pork scratchings - I ate too many of these
Pork scratchings – I ate too many of these
Gherkins to go with my Rillette
Gherkins to go with my Rillette
Salad for Julie - many of those bacon pieces ended up on my plate
Salad for Julie – many of those bacon pieces ended up on my plate
Duck rillette with pieces of Goose for me
Duck rillette with pieces of Goose for me
Frogs legs for Julie
Frogs legs for Julie
Andouillette sausage for me
Andouillette sausage for me
Spuds
Spuds

These main courses did not work out very well for us. Julie had had Frogs Legs 4 years ago when here and they were delightful but these were much smaller and bonier. I had already eaten too much with the scratching and the rillettes but did not really care for the sausage that had a number of pieces of tripe within. As well, last time we had formed a great rapport with the other patrons in the restaurant but this time nothing except later a British travel writer came for a while and had a chat with us. Julie went upstairs to the loo and came back with the following pictures.

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All in all a disappointing day. No doubt we had raised our expectations too high. You can never go back.

We did not do much for the rest of the day and evening but get ready to depart Lyon tomorrow.