The House on the Hill

Wednesday, 30 September, 2015

Today we leave Seville and go into the mountains. Our bus picks us up after breakfast. Our first stop is in a town called Jerez de la Frontera where we go to a Sherry winery Bodegas Tradición. Their website is quite illuminating.

Sherry Bodega in Jerez

http://www.bodegastradicion.es/index.php/en/#

Entering the Bodegas
Entering the Bodegas

It is explained to us that this winery does not grow or crush any grapes. Instead, they buy in pressed grape juices and the skill of the wine maker is what makes their Sherry. It is considered a small Bodegas.

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Sherry Barrels as far as the eye can see
Sherry Barrels as far as the eye can see

After the tour of the facilities they provide us with a generous tasting of some of their Sherries. Some in the group don’t care for Sherry and I can’t say it is on my normal purchase list, but if it is a good one I will try it. These were not bad. (As an aside a couple of years ago Frank put on a special lunch with impressive Sherries at Movida Next Door for International Sherry Day. Sadly, this year is conflicts with Spring Carnival so no go).

The Tasting - our Hostess is facing in the White top
The Tasting – our Hostess is facing in the White top
In the Glass - the Olives were delightful
In the Glass – the Olives were delightful
The Range for tasting
The Range for tasting

The Bodegas is also famous for its art collections from a range of well known artists from over time e.g. Zurbarán, Velázquez, Hiepes, El Labrador, Valdés Leal, Goya, Maella, Lucas Velázquez, Madrazo, Lucas Villamil, Carlos de Haes…and some others.

My pathetic photography does not show the whole story
My pathetic photography does not show the whole story

Again I refer you to the website:

http://www.bodegastradicion.es/index.php/en/art

I finish the examination of the artwork and sit down with a bit of Sherry. Julie comes to take pictures of me and then a number of the others in the group do the same – I went viral.

The Artwork Enthusiast
The Artwork Enthusiast

One other arty thing that the Bodegas does is to put on special exhibitions. Here is a photo from one of the slightly grotesque range:

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We get back on the bus and head to a seaside, Atlantic Ocean, town of Sanlucar de Barrameda. Our first stop is a market primarily featuring seafood.

Live Pipis - he would feed them little bits of the Aspragus
Live Pipis – he would feed them little bits of the Aspragus
School Prawns - Frank bought some for us to try (whole)
School Prawns – Frank bought some for us to try (whole)
Hey, they did have some meat
Hey, they did have some meat
But primarily seafood - look at the Tuna
But primarily seafood – look at the Tuna

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We then go off looking for a couple of Tapas bars.

City centre - John in wander mode as usual
City centre – John in wander mode as usual
The Group entering the Tapas Bar
The Group entering the Tapas Bar

As one can see, out the front is quite crowded. I went inside with the group and it was worse. So I wandered back outside in the hope that some tables would clear. A very young girl, like 8YO, approached and I did not know what to expect. She asked if we would like a table for a large group. Well of course I said yes and went in and asked Frank to have a look. They set up a row of tables, and chairs, in the lane way to the other side of the restaurant. Very comfortable and very nice.

The Group at our special table
The Group at our special table

The kitchen was just on the other side of us and when they would finish a dish they would yell out to us and the guys would go in to grab our food.

Fish maw, not highly popular
Fish maw, not highly popular
Nor was the raw Sea Anemone - I thought they were OK
Nor was the raw Sea Anemone – I thought they were OK
The Potatoes with Tuna were very popular
The Potatoes with Tuna were very popular
As were the fried up "mess of prawns."
As were the fried up “mess of prawns.”
Clams were nice
Clams were nice

Good stuff. We get on the bus and drive down to the sea shore and select one of several Tapas bars that are side by side. We aren’t as lucky with the tables this time, we manage to get a few small ones but the chairs / stools were limited.

At the sea shore
At the sea shore
Our Tapas bar - En Terazs
Our Tapas bar – En Terazs
The Beach at the Inlet
The Beach at the Inlet
Fish Stew
Fish Stew
Lightly seared Tuna, delightful
Lightly seared Tuna, delightful
Another seafood dish
Another seafood dish
Fish in tomato sauce
Fish in tomato sauce

It is time to go to our final destination for the day – continue on to the whitewashed village of Vejer de la Frontera. Note: that there are a large number of “white villages” all over Southern Spain. One of the reasons was they were whitewashed to kill the Plague.

The Village Centre
The Village Centre
Looking towards our Hotel
Looking towards our Hotel

Our Hotel, La Botica, is in a series of very old buildings. It is an absolute rabbit warren with lots of passages and stairs. We love it. See the following for a range of pictures.

https://www.wotif.com/Vejer-De-La-Frontera-Hotels-La-Botica.h2530032.Hotel-Information?chkin=15%2F10%2F2015&chkout=16%2F10%2F2015

Our room
Our room

We have a balcony, not quite private as others can use it too, with a great view of the house on the hill – F.W. Dixon – and the sites around. Naturally, I decide to have a rest and, even more, naturally Julie goes for a prance around the village. The following are some of her photos.

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The White Town
The White Town

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Panoramic  view of Vejer de la Frontera
Panoramic view of Vejer de la Frontera

That night we had been scheduled to dine at the “Best Steakhouse in Andalucía” but it is apparently closed for the summer (September?). Instead we go to a Moroccan restaurant, El Jardin del Califa, which is actually right next to the Hotel. For more details about this restaurant and others in Vejer, please refer to the website

http://www.anniebspain.com/vejer-de-la-frontera/restaurants/

We will talk a lot more about Annie B in tomorrow’s post. In Annie’s discussion of El Jardin del Califa is a photo of the owner. He joins us and gives us some background about the buildings we are in and the establishment of the restaurant. It is attached to the Hotel – we enter through the restuarant and then depart straight into the Hotel at the end. We are having the famous Mezze.

The Califa Story
The Califa Story
The Menu
The Menu
Stuffed Vine Leaves
Stuffed Vine Leaves
Falafil
Falafil
Spicy Triangles
Spicy Triangles
The Very Happy Group
The Very Happy Group
Prawns
Prawns
Pork
Pork
Salady stuff - not the pomegranates
Salady stuff – not the pomegranates
A good looking Chicken skewer
A good looking Chicken skewer

So we trudge out down and up stairs to our room to crash. An amazing day, I suspect tomorrow will not be quiet either.

Pigs and Flamenco

Tuesday, 29 September, 2015

We start out the day after brekkie with a trip to a Jamon factory.

Entering the Jamon factory
Entering the Jamon factory
Just a few hams hanging at the entrance
Just a few hams hanging at the entrance

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We learn later that there are around 1 million hams hanging in the factory. At a rough average price of e400 per ham, that is quite a business.

Before the tour of the factory, we drive out to one of the farms where the pigs are raised – on acorn to provide the special flavour. There is a fair walk from the bus drop off to the farm and there are three fords of a stream which lead to wet feet etc. It turns out that there were bridges that we mostly missed.

I crossed this bridge
I crossed this bridge
Young Pigs
Young Pigs
More pigs
More pigs
An older Pig being fattened by an acorn diet. They need about 2 hectares per pig to do the job right
An older Pig being fattened by an acorn diet. They need about 2 hectares per pig to do the job right
Other Crops
Other Crops

We walk up the hill to another field where several pigs are living and roaming.

JV about to enter the pig house
JV about to enter the pig house

We walk back to the bus with this time all the group walking over the bridges to miss the fords.

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The curing process starts with the Salting
The curing process starts with the Salting

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We have to wear sterile outfits. Just a few Jamons, eh?
We have to wear sterile outfits. Just a few Jamons, eh?
JV in sterile clobber
JV in sterile clobber

When the tour is over we get rid of our sterile clobber and go to a tasting area.

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Tasting plates - 3 different types of Jamon
Tasting plates – 3 different types of Jamon
The group at the tasting area
The group at the tasting area

The tour and tasting ends and we thank our host. We go outside and there are a whole bunch of vintage Jaguars.

Must be a Jaguar Car Club
Must be a Jaguar Car Club
Another beauty
Another beauty

We drive to another nearby town for a Jamon lunch.

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Entering the restaurant
Entering the restaurant
Most of the group
Most of the group

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Mushrooms
Mushrooms
Vino Tinto
Vino Tinto
Raw Pork with Foie Gras
Raw Pork with Foie Gras
Tomato Soup with Truffle
Tomato Soup with Truffle

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Iberian Pork
Iberian Pork

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Dessert
Dessert
Frank and the Chef
Frank and the Chef

We jump back onto the bus to go back to Seville. We have an interesting night in front of us.

A Flamenco Theatre in the local fresh food market
A Flamenco Theatre in the local fresh food market
From Right to Left: Guitar Player, Male Singer, Male Dancer and the Mama
From Right to Left: Guitar Player, Male Singer, Male Dancer and the Mama
The Girl Dancer - traditional outfit
The Girl Dancer – traditional outfit

At the break, Anna and Julie are taught Flamenco moves

Mama Singing
Mama Singing
The Gypsys bring the Grand Daughter onto the stage
The Gypsys bring the Grand Daughter onto the stage
Twins we were told
Twins we were told
Traditional M/F in non-Male gear
Traditional M/F in non-Male gear
The whole family at the end
The whole family at the end

We then went out for a dinner, as if we really needed it.

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A good start
A good start

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Squid Ink pasta
Squid Ink pasta
Fish
Fish
Desserts
Desserts

Well, that is the end of Day 3. It was packed with activities and food. It took me several days to finish this post and still 11+ days of Posts to go.

Tour of Seville

Monday, 28 September, 2015

After breakfast, the group starts out on a lenghty walking tour of Seville.

One of the plethora of narrow lane ways in Seville
One of the plethora of narrow lane ways in Seville
The Group
The Group
Spice Stall in the Lane Way
Spice Stall in the Lane Way
Same Stall but Tea
Same Stall but Tea
More Spices
More Spices
Leaning Tower of Seville? Could not have been the camera man
Leaning Tower of Seville? Could not have been the camera man
The Square
The Square
Impressive Architecture
Impressive Architecture
Entering the Alcazar Palace
Entering the Alcazar Palace

The Group was then to go into the Cathedral. There was a very long queue and frankly, I have seen enough churches in my time. So I decided to rest in a cafe across the street while they waited in the queue and then toured the Cathedral.

Naturally I ordered a Sangria
Naturally I ordered a Sangria

There were a large number of horse and buggies giving tourist rides. In the time I spent there waiting I did not see one get a customer.

After the tour ended, exactly one Sangria long, we walked to one of the many restaurants for lunch.

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Josh had reserved a table for the group
Josh had reserved a table for the group
Soup
Soup

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Oxtail in the fritter was great, course was amazing
Oxtail in the fritter was great, course was amazing
Iberian Pork again
Iberian Pork again
Cake - not for me, of course
Cake – not for me, of course

A very impressive lunch and along with last night’s dinner means I am getting a better impression of Spanish food than I have in the past. That night nothing was formally scheduled but we go out to four Tapas bars.

Crossing the bridge
Crossing the bridge
That roof top bar is our first stop
That roof top bar is our first stop

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Jamon
Jamon
The second stop
The second stop

There was a bullfight on the television in the background but I would not watch it.

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Our third stop
Our third stop
Beer and prawns at an outdoor crowded table
Beer and prawns at an outdoor crowded table
Our last stop
Our last stop

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Then it was time to sign off for the night. Some very good food today!

The Tour Begins

Sunday – 27 September, 2015

Today is Day 11 of the formal tour, It starts in Seville while we are still in Barcelona. We are up relatively early and go out to a local breakfast place.

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So, we head out to the central train station to catch our express to Seville. We were going to take the Metro to the main station but when I got to the Metro station and saw all the taxis outside, I decided it was best to just take a taxi. The ride was easy and we had time for drinks at the cafe there.

The usual 3 course meal for
The usual 3 course meal for

JV goes across to a shop and we come close to missing our train because of all the time she spent there. However, we do get onto the train and are off shortly. Interestingly, the train to Seville and the train to Malaga are joined together at the start of the journey.

Note the speed of 270K. It never quite got up to 300K.
Note the speed of 270K. It never quite got up to 300K.

We were in the first class cabin although it did not seem that special. There was no laptop power, USB or Internet access. However, what did happen is they brought us a full lunch that wasn’t too bad.

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The train journey takes precisely 2 1/2 hours as advertised. As we get off, we notice how warm it is. After Melbourne’s cold winter it was welcome. We take a taxi to our Hotel, the Gran Melia Colon. We check in and the room is quite nice.

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We meet the tour group at the Hotel bar at 6:30. The people are all “new” – not on any of our previous tours, except Frank Camorra of course. However, I knew one of the couples well – Alan and Kerrie Oster – from an earlier period of my life. It was good to see them.

The group has a Cava at the bar and then heads out to some Tapas bars / restaurants for dinner.

Our first stop
Our first stop
The Troops pouring in
The Troops pouring in

We see an interesting site of a “girl” on a hammock:

Before the murder
Before the murder
After the poor girl was broken apart by ???
After the poor girl was broken apart by ???
At the table. Standing is Carlos our Spanish tour guide
At the table. Standing is Carlos our Spanish tour guide

Here are some of the dishes that we had”

Soup, in the past each customer would use the wooden spoon to eat the soup, we did not
Soup, in the best each customer would use the wooden spoon to eat the soup, we did not

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The Group
The Group
Iberian Pork
Iberian Pork

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The Rice Close up
The Rice Close up

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Baby Clams
Baby Clams
Mushroom Omelot
Mushroom Omelot

So it was the end of the night. A rather stunning start and a portent of the days to come. Sorry for fallling behind, again – maybe I will catch-up later.