Last Day of Savor Tour

Friday, 27 May, 2016 – Dubrovnik to Korcula – Dubrovnik

Weather report: Great

Today is the last day with Andrew and his tour. We are to go to the Island of Korcula. After breakfast, we are to meet Andrew outside the City gates. He stops to pick us up, is there for 1 minute and gets a ticket for parking in an “illegal stop”. In the mean time there are professionsal drivers that park in the same spot for over 30 minutes etc.

We drive to the Peljesac Peninsula which is around a 90 minute drive. We go to a winery there, Milos.

Arriving at Milos Winery
Arriving at Milos Winery

We find out later that Milos is perhaps the most famous Croatian winemaker. We are greeted by his Son who gives us a tour of the winery.

In the barrel room
In the barrel room
Going through a hole in the wall
Going through a hole in the wall
Our location
Our location

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Our Host
Our Host

We are then shown to the tasting room which is amazingly modern and well done.

Entering the tasting room
Entering the tasting room
Paintings everywhere
Paintings everywhere

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The tasting has commenced
The tasting has commenced

Andrew of course has water as he is driving. We started with a rose that I thought was quite good. Note the cheese platter and bread bits.

This is the range of wines tasted plus their Olive Oil
This is the range of wines tasted plus their Olive Oil

We depart and head to our next destination which is Korcula Island. It is necessary to take a ferry across.

About to board the passengers only ferry
About to board the passengers only ferry
There is also a ferry for passengers and automobiles / trucks that was very popular
There is also a ferry for passengers and automobiles / trucks that was very popular
Looking back
Looking back
Our wake - the car ferry has departed too
Our wake – the car ferry has departed too

We arrive at the island after about a 40 minute water journey. We are met by our guide for Korcula, Andrea, who tries to be a bit of a comedienne.

Arriving on Korcula
Arriving on Korcula
Island layout with Andrea partially obscured
Island layout with Andrea partially obscured

We are lead on a tour by Andrea around the island and its old town. I guess we were sick of old towns by then as we took little photos. However, there is one thing that Korcula is especially famous for – the explorer Marko Polo used Korcula as the jumping off point from Venice at the start of his famous Asian tour.

The Journey of Marko Polo
The Journey of Marko Polo
OK, one narrow passageway with a variation of the Bridge of Sighs
OK, one narrow passageway with a variation of the Bridge of Sighs

The tour finishes but Andrea agrees to take us to where we are to have dinner in the late afternoon. After discussions, it is agreed to move the reservation from 5:00 PM to 3:00 PM as we would still have a 2+ hour drive back to Dubrovnik.

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We say goodbye to Andrea, although we do see her later by accident, and go to the other side of the island – Boris and Viktorya go their own way. We are all starving so stop at a cafe on the water and order drinks and a pizza. We probably should not have, as it spoiled the appetite a bit for the late lunch but gee it was good.

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Julie is with us for a while, for a drink, but then decides to explore for a while and will meet us at the restaurant. On her way to the top, she goes by the restaurant where there is a young girl making pasta for our meal.

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Julie then heads up to the top of the walls and the following are some of the photos that she took.

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The pizza crew decide we had better leave our idyllic setting, we did believe that that side of the island was a better setting than the other side where the restaurant was, and go over for our late lunch. When we get there we discover Boris, Viktorya and Julie are already there.

The Pizza crew arriving
The Pizza crew arriving
The first course - looks amazing
The first course – looks amazing
Andrew settling in
Andrew settling in
Fish Fingers
Fish Fingers

Not really, just a crap photographer. It was a nice fish but it was overcooked which was a common problem that we faced during the trip. The pasta was what we saw the young girl making earlier in this Post. I should mention about our waiter who was very knowledgeable, especially about the wine – we were served 5 wines, and was a really nice guy.

Sorbet as a refresher
Sorbet as a refresher
More of the pasta with vegies
More of the pasta with vegies

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Julie orders an extra bottle of nice wine.

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We did not really rave about this, our final tour dinner, but probably the pizza that we had ruined our appetite. The waiter was great and the wines quite good. It turns out the ferry schedule has been changed and we would have quite a long wait so the waiter organises another boat to take us across.

On the return boat - Andrew looks like he is asleep already
On the return boat – Andrew looks like he is asleep already

When we reach dry land, we all say goodbye to Andrew so that when we get to Dubrovnik we can all jump out and try to avoid getting him another ticket. The drive back is uneventful, might have been some snores along the way. We reach Dubrovnik and jump out as planned. Andrew then drives off into the sunset.

Our transport for the last 10 days, bye bye
Our transport for the last 10 days, bye bye

There is a long flight of very old rock stairs to negotiate to get down into the town. Jan and I struggle to get down the stairs but eventually make it. We all go back to the apartments and settle in our rooms for a while. We had made no plans and were feeling a bit washed out. Eventually Julie pokes her head out the door, just as Jan and Hugh are planning to go out. Then Boris and Viktorya come down the stairs. Boris suggests that we go to a place across town which has live jazz and we all agree. We get a table for the six of us near the front.

The Band
The Band

They were playing 40/50s jazz. They were not the Pardoners but weren’t too bad, just what we needed. We ordered drinks and some of us food.

Julie and Hugh has Irish Coffee
Julie and Hugh has Irish Coffee
I order a seafood risotto - not great but OK
I order a seafood risotto – not great but OK
Viktorya orders soup
Viktorya orders soup

A fourth member of the band shows up and picks up a guitar. The old guy switches from guitar to saxophone.

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Music was good and it is a fitting way to end Andrew’s tour. We will see Jan & Hugh tomorrow but say goodbye to Boris and Viktorya and crash into bed.

Around Dubrovnik

Thursday, 26 May, 2016 – Dubrovnik

Weather report: Excellent

Today we are just roaming around Dubrovnik. Andrew will not join us at all. Julie and I start out early and get a breakfast from one of the many nearby outdoor restaurants.

Toasted Ham and Cheese? Not my understanding
Toasted Ham and Cheese? Not my understanding
Julie had her fruit, Fresh Orange Juice and coffee
Julie had her fruit, Fresh Orange Juice and coffee

We did not go back to that place again. Andrew has booked us a guide to show us around town. We meet her, she is on the phone and was for a significant part of the tour. Eventually the rest of the troops come down and the tour begins at the market in the square that lasts until around noon.

Our guide at the market with candied orange peel
Our guide at the market with candied orange peel

We must not have been that excited about the tour as neither Julie and I have any photos from it. One thing that the guide did do was introduce us to a wine shop, run by an Aussie, whith whom we could organise wine tastings.

The Aussie Wine Shop
The Aussie Wine Shop
Making a wine tasting booking for later today
Making a wine tasting booking for later today

The wine shop, and a brewery across the way were in one of the many narrow lanes with a large array of steps going up to the top of the wall. We move along another couple of lanes and decide to stop at one of the cafes for a drink.

Looking down towards the square
Looking down towards the square
Looking up to the many flights of stairs
Looking up to the many flights of stairs

We walk back towards our apartments but stop by the Hotel in town where Jan & Hugh will stay on Saturday night. BTW: while we were at the Hotel the nice lady receptionist booked a restaurant for the four of us that night. We then go around the corner and select an indoor bar which turns out to be attached to their hotel to be.

In the Hotel bar
In the Hotel bar
Wine areas of Croatia. We had been to Istria with Andrew 4 years ago
Wine areas of Croatia. We had been to Istria with Andrew 4 years ago
Impressive machine on the left
Impressive machine on the left

We had not eaten since breakfast so ordered some snacks. I ordered pork crackling which was just pork fat with no crackling and the guys had a reasonable cheese platter. We then go back to the apartments except that Julie prances around Dubrovnik and here are some of her photos.

Outside the walls
Outside the walls
A busy cafe
A busy cafe

We learned later that 6 cruise-ships were in port which made the town quite crowded. Apparently in August there may be as many as 9 cruise ships and it is virtually impossible to move with all the passengers crowding the streets.

The Main Walls from below
The Main Walls from below
Crowds pouring in the main gate
Crowds pouring in the main gate

Later, the four of us reform below to go to the wine tasting. We arrive there and Boris and Viktorya arrive a little bit later. Inside there are a number of cute sayings:

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Note the beer hall across the way
Note the beer hall across the way

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The drinks menu had three different kinds of flights of wine for tasting among other standard orders. The three were all Reds, which Hugh and I selected, a white, rose and a red that Jan selected and all Whites as selected by Boris and Viktorya.

The Red and Mixed flights
The Red and Mixed flights

We are guided through the tastings by the Aussie owner. He seemed to know his stuff as he had a lot to say about each of the wines. We eventually decide to buy an additional bottle of Red #1 to share to finish the tasting. Hugh does go across the way to get himself one of the brews. We say good night to Boris & Viktorya, who have booked into Restaurant 360, and head to our restaurant for the night, Proto a fish restaurant.

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The Hotel receptionist had booked us into the favoured upstairs patio. The weather is still good so heaters were not necessary.

The prestigous upstairs outdoor patio
The prestigous upstairs outdoor patio
The happy diners
The happy diners
Looking at the bar. The place did fill up as the night went along
Looking at the bar. The place did fill up as the night went along
I had crab soup as a starter, nice
I had crab soup as a starter, nice
Salad for Jan and Hugh
Salad for Jan and Hugh
Seafood soup for Julie. Boris and Viktorya had been there for lunch and recommended that soup
Seafood soup for Julie. Boris and Viktorya had been there for lunch and recommended that soup
Julie had the Sea Bass - she loved it
Julie had the Sea Bass – she loved it
Hugh and I each ordered the Scallops with lentils
Hugh and I each ordered the Scallops with lentils
Jan ordered steak in peppercorn sauce
Jan ordered steak in peppercorn sauce

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Well, that’s it for the night. The end of a pretty good day where we did nothing!

Editor’s note: this and the previous Post were prepared after we returned to Australia. Even then jetlag had set in and there was another 5 days before I got back into the swing again. I should be able to finish up the rest of the days, still a few to go, relatively quickly.

For those readers who have been following along as each part is Posted, I have gone back and did significant updates to the Post “Friday the 13th” and also important updates to “Goodbye Hungary …” to reflect the relationship with an Anthony Bordain No Reservations menu. Please have a look.

Montenegro back to Croatia

Wednesday, 25 May, 2016 – Perast to Kodor to Dubrovnik, Croatia

Unlike yesterday, the weather today is great. After breakfast, checkout and load our luggage in the van.

Just chekced out of Hotel
Just chekced out of Hotel

Then we catch a public bus around to Kodor, Boris and Viktorya have taken an earlier bus. We arrive at the town and meet up with Vesna, Boris and Viktorya.

At the entrance to the old town in Kodor
At the entrance to the old town in Kodor

There is a street market near the entrance to the old town. We go to it and Vesna picks up a number of fruit and vegies which she puts in a big basket. Boris also buys some fruit. At some of the stalls, we are given tastes of their wares.

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Great looking especially the Tomatoes
Great looking especially the Tomatoes

We then enter the old town and the guys go on a tour with Vesna. In the mean time, I go to an outdoor cafe attached to a Hotel and wait until they return.

Looking back to the main square
Looking back to the main square

The guys return from their tour. We go get something to eat, Andrew heads off to a meat restaurant, Julie goes off to climb the walls and hills and the rest of us go to a seafood restaurant in the bowels of the old town.

The restaurant menu
The restaurant menu
The Fare
The Fare
Jan and Hugh with Drinks
Jan and Hugh with Drinks
Boris orders a soup
Boris orders a soup
and Mussels and a selection of fish and a Veal chops caserole
and Mussels and a selection of fish and a Veal chops caserole
Jan and I ordered the Risotto with Shrimps, quite tasty
Jan and I ordered the Risotto with Shrimps, quite tasty

In the mean time, Julie is wandering the wall and higher in the town. A few shots from her.

Looking over Kodor to its harbour
Looking over Kodor to its harbour

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High above the town
High above the town
Looking up the inlet - note the Cruise ship there, 3 yesterday
Looking up the inlet – note the Cruise ship there, 3 yesterday

The cruise ships, when they are in, are what are the major cause of the population flooding / crowding. We are nearly finished with our meal when Julie returns. She has a coffee and Jan’s leftover risotto and is quite OK with that. We leave the restaurant to meet up with Andrew and Vesna.

In the square looking back to the cafe where I waited
In the square looking back to the cafe where I waited

We wait for a while and meet up with Vesna and Andrew and then outside where we catch Boris and Viktorya back at the market. We say goodbye to Vesna and then catch the public bus back to the Hotel. Once there we hop into the van and begin the trip to Dubrovnik. It is along picturesque, coastal roads and takes about 3 hours. There is a long queue getting into Croatia at the border but this time the time per car is much less than when we previously entered so not a massive delay. We eventually arrive outside of Dubrovnik. It is a walled town and we have to stop outside. Andrew had called ahead and the owner of the apartment in which we are to stay is there to help us with our luggage and directions. Another guy is with him and loads most of the big suitcases onto a simple trolley.

He has obviously done this before
He has obviously done this before

Andrew is staying outside the town and heads out to his place. We follow the owner to walk to the apartment which is a fair way considering over cobblestone streets.

Entering the Main Gate
Entering the Main Gate

When we get to the apartment the guy with the trolley is taking up the suitcases by one at a time loading them on his shoulder and then carrying them up two or three flights of stairs. Every time he comes down, it looks like he is about to die.Eventually all the bags are up the stairs and I fight my way up the two flights of slightly dangerous stairs, for the next 6 days. After some discussion we settle into our nice rooms and have a bit of a nap.

Andrew is supposed to join us for dinner. However, when driving back to his place to stay, there is a major traffic accident which slows him down badly so he sends us an email to say that he won’t be coming and that Boris will be MC for the night. Eventually we meet down stairs to go to our restaurant for the night. It is up a long flight of stairs past the square to our right, a lot of stairs, no photo sorry.

Arriving at Restaurant Kopun
Arriving at Restaurant Kopun
We are still not all the way up the hill
We are still not all the way up the hill

Kopun apparently means Capon which is to be a Male Rooster that is castrated at a young age. It is supposed to make the best chicken flavour?? We make our orders.

Loving couple - ain't they sweet
Loving couple – ain’t they sweet
Interesting Condiments
Interesting Condiments

Jan and Hugh and Julie and I each ordered a famous Capon with a couple of fruit treatments.

For Jan and Julie
For Jan and Julie
Hugh and Patrick's order
Hugh and Patrick’s order

I think that the overall consensus was that although interesting, the chook (Capon) was over cooked and totally dominated by the sweet fruit in which it was cooked.

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The Capon Menu
The Capon Menu
Dessert
Dessert
The Fellowship
The Fellowship

Time to go; back down the massive set of stairs and then up the levels of stairs again in our apartments. End of a good day.