This is our last day in Bordeaux (ever?- we have been here twice before with Roy Moorfield). It is a relatively quiet day. The breakfast smorgy is pretty much the same as yesterday:
Smoked Salmon before the rats attack itVarious Hams
JV and some of the others go out to do a Catacombs tour. Myself and a few others are to have a massage in the Spa area of the Chateau. I get to the Spa area and no one is around, except Jeremy and Chris and eventually Colin. Eventually some girls show up and I go in for my massage. It is a gentle one but it does help to ease the back problems. I have a sauna, spa and then a steam bath. After a shower, I feel pretty good.
After the Catacombs, Doug and Julie went to a famous Macaron shop.
In the Macaron shopMacaronsDoug smooving over his purchases
Julie and Doug walk back from town. JV is to have a 3 hour massage section from 3:00 but Simone and her go by the massage desk and she can get in early at 1:30. The 3 hour massage probably only lasted 2:45.
Then it is dinner time and we are having pre-dinner drinks at the patio. Turns out it is in the lawn well away from the restaurant.
The Group near the Duck pondSnacks with the wine. The tins with the “Z” on them are the world famous caviare that we got a couple of days agoSpooning out the caviareSome caviare left. There was three serves for everyone. It was delightful, smooth like butterJV feeding the fish with left over bread
We brought our own glasses so JV takes them back to our room. We then meet in the restaurant for another gala dinner.
The Carte for the nightSpecial Duck starterTable BTable ASalmon TartareLobster Tails with Iberian ham Beignet (the long cigar) – brilliantDuck filletI had made a deal with Simone to give her my dessert but got this fresh fruit salad instead.Chocolate biscuit
As we have to pack suitcases to move out of Bordeaux the next day, it is an earlier night.
We have an earlier breakfast which is a pretty decent smorgasbord.
Who took most of the smoked salmon?
We have a very full day ahead of us so start out relatively early at 10:00. A smaller bus picks us up – the driver had lived in Brisbane for 19 years. It is another gray day but the weather generally held out.
The Caviare Farm
The first stop is a water farm where Sturgeon are raised to eventually produce caviare. It was a little difficult to find but definitely worth it.
The Farm’s Shop. Although it was supposed to be open, it never was
A worker arrived and was to be our guide, a very good one although his English was limited. We walk down to where the fish are. Greeted by 4 German Shepherds barking away.
The Guard Dog on watch
We were at tanks that had smaller Sturgeon at first and we tried to take photos of them jumping our of the water but in general they were too quick for us.
Smaller Sturgeon in the TanksA smaller SturgeonGrabbing a much larger Sturgeon from the tankBit ugly ain’t it?The Sturgeon in all her glory
We moved to another part of the farm where there was a different kind of Sturgeon.
Much stronger these fish
That was the end of the tour. Colin had wanted to buy some of the fresh caviare but the shop was still not open even though it had agreed to do so on Wednesday. We try a shop in town but there was none there either.
Aussie BBQ
The next event is a BBQ at an ex-pat Australian’s “small” farm house. Kate had moved here about 9 years ago with her husband only for him to die a short time after wards. She stayed on and manages the whole thing by herself, including horses, goats, chickens, etc. The house has two separate sections of 3 bedrooms each for guests. Colin stays here every Christmas.
The Troops at the back of the houseColin greeting the French friends that are cooking the BBQThe Swimming PoolThe Drinks, now we are talingDuck Sausage – simply magnificentChicken Sausages – also very goodOnion tart with Anchovies and OlivesQuicheSturgeon Brochettes from the BBQ. Very good, JV loved themOther snacks and roasted potatoesThe Front of the House
Near the end I met up with some of the animals – the Goats, a Horse and some chooks. The weather was stunning and I believe that I got a bit of a tan. It was a sad goodbye to depart. Colin had left some clothes from last Christmas which he brought back on the bus.
St Emilion
On our way back, the bus driver took us to the bus depot. There waiting was his wife who had managed to buy caviare and passed it over to Colin. Alls well that ends well.
The bus then drove on and stopped in St Emilion. Most of the troops got off, including JV, to have a look around. I went back for a snooze, of course.
The home of the Macaron
A sad event occurred in town. One of our troops, Nonna, cut her leg open. There was lots of blood, she is on blood thinners. The local Pharmacist came out and did what she could but said that Nonna should really go to a hospital for stitches. So Nonna, Robbie and Mouse caught a taxi to the next town where they were there for much of the evening and hence missed out on the wonderful meal we were to have that night.
The following are photos JV took after the dinner.
Ah, Duck
Ah, GooseTrufflesA local “tuck shop” menu – looks OK
The Duck Rescue
JV was going to walk back but Colin and her grabbed a cab instead. Back at the Chateau, JV found a lost little duckling in the hotel.
The Lost Duckling
Naturally, the duckling needed to be rescued. JV with help of others carried it to the pond. It swam out there gratefully and eventually was joined by the Mother.
The Rescued Duckling – job well done
The Mistress
We catch taxis into town albeit with a screw up of meeting times. When we get there, people, mostly in sits, are everywhere with Police blocking off roads to where we wanted to go. It turns out that the ex-Presidents Mistress was in town for some function with lots of people attending. Ah, the French.
Some of the Hordes
Hostellerie de Plaisance
This is a two Michelin star restaurant for tonight. The Police have blocked off some roads so we had to walk a ways to get the.
Doug came out to greet usPart of a small “chain” – Relais ChateauxTo have drinks outside. Sadly it started to rainSo we moved inside. “Only” Salmon TattingerAmazing Starters
It is then that we learn about Nonna’s accident and the reduced numbers. We go to our private room which is set-up with two round tables of six.
The Menu, very impressive
The Head Waiter asked if we had any food problems. I told him that I could not do the Egg course, as did Simone and did not eat desserts. That was no problem, he said.
The Egg – looked very impressiveOur replacement dish – Artichokes and other goodies. WowSmoked Mussels including Aquitane’s Caviare. Again WOW!Main course of TurbotMain Course – Farm HenThe View from the RestaurantChocolate and CherriesReplacement Cheese for meStrawberry from SouthwestMore sweet delicaciesAutograph from the Chef
We go to catch the taxi back to the farm. We are in the first group and the taxi “is waiting for us at the pharmacy”. Of course, it is not there and we wander around for ages until eventually our old favourite van shows up. It takes us back home and then heads to to collect the rest of the group.
A stunning day. The next morning, both Jeremy and Colin compare this against the 3 Star Per Se we did in NYC last year. Their view was that the building, the room, the view, the service, the food and the wine were better than Per Se. I remain sitting on the fence with that comparison and the Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in London 10 days ago. Suffice to say, all were great.
Today it is goodbye to our private château and our friends who work there. I tried to take a number of photos but only one turned out and it was not very good.
Justine waving and Isobel. The whole staff set were in line but I blew it as usual.
We head across Bordeaux to St Emilion. There was road construction that slowed us down badly for a while but we got there in under 90 minutes.
Chateau Hotel Grand BarailOur home for the next three nights
Grand Barrail is a large Chateau Hotel with many rooms, a Spa, a weightroom and a restaurant.
The Main Room, big and roomy and modernThere is a desk in the room, there was not in the last placeModern Bathroom. There is a bath tub behind the doorNever seen a shower set-up like thisThe view from the shower window
One thing I would say about this place is that the Wireless, at least in our remote room, is very slow which makes it time consuming to do the Blog.
There is a winery next door that is associated with the Chateau. Colin has organised for us to have a tour of the winery.
Entrance to the wineryColin and Doug leading the wayLooking back over the grapes to the Chateau
We are met by a delightful young girl who was very knowledgeable and informative. In the photo above, there are tiny grapes forming that she stated had started two days ago.
Our guide in the barrel roomThe Full Name of the Chateau and WineryPouring our tasting glasses. There were two 2009 reds shown.In their wine shopShe showed us a very fruity Sauvignon BlancLooking back at the winery
That evening we are to dine in town at a classic Bistro. We are a group of 16 and a taxi for 8 is waiting for us. He said another taxi would be back in 10 minutes. Well, 10 minutes passed more than once. Finally, the same taxi came back and picked the second group of 8 up. We go there and it is neither in the town, out amongst the vines, nor really a bistro – a large restaurant would be more to the point.
Waves from the top from some of the guys on the first loadThe Restaurant is on the first floor – wine barrels at the ground floorThe View from the topThe Guys settling in. The restaurant was mostly full by the time we left.Appetiser of Fetta Cheese
As we had not eaten since breakfast, this was very welcome. The menu had three courses and I told Colin I could not eat the first or the last. Colin organised a replacement of the first course for me.
The first course – Egg with Foie Gras
This course was not very popular with some of the troops.
Main course of Pork
Again this course was not very popular wth some because the amount of fat on the pork.
Dessert
We head back, in twwo shits again of the taxi, to the Chateau.
Every Chateau needs a helicopter
There was a suggestion to have a drink at the bar but we decide to have an earlier night.
This is to be a very quiet day albeit with a twist. At breakfast Colin makes a dish that we agreed upon the night before from the leftover potatoes and Toulouse sausage.
Bubble and Squeak with Bacon
At 11:00 each day we had a health drink, either fruit or vegetable.
Healthy Fruit DrinkBone Marrow organised by Doug earlier in the week picked up by the girlsLunch spread – mostly saladsHappy HourDoug’s Cured Salmon
Colin had indicated that we would be heading out to a pub at 5:00. Julie was not yet back from her pedicure so I was worried she would not be able to find us. Instead, Colin said we would be staying in and we would be listening to jazz music.
I have not put a video in these Blogs before but I will attempt this one. One can see that the quality of my videos easily surpasses my photos, on the down side.
The band played for 2.5 hours with two breaks in between. We liked them and would recommend. Then it was time for dinner.
The Special Carte from Colin & DougThe Very Special RedFirst course of cured SalmonRabbit Rillette Pie, brilliantMain of Pork Fillet Bordelaise with Bone MarrowTrio of chocolate, prunes and Julie’s Armagnac
Today, there is the first cooking lesson from Doug. Julie and some others elect to have a massage instead. There are six of us attending the lesson. We are not doing Pate or Terrain (sic) but instead Rillettes – Rabbit and Salmon.
Starts with Pork Belly for the fatRabbit LegsIn the potPoached SalmonSome Smoked Salmon for flavourOnion and butter for the Salmon. My contributionThyme added to the rabbit
We finished with the rabbit in the oven and the salmon cooking.
Lunch Spread
After lunch, I had the typical nap. I was awakened by a knock at the door to say that cooking was continuing. I got back to the kitchen a bit late.
Rabbit with skin and bones (mostly) removed and mashed up
Doug will carry on with the rest of the preparation.
Veal rib roast for tonightTonight’s MenuRabbit Rillettes Canapes for pre-dinner and champagneSalmon Rillettes Canapes for pre-dinner and champagneVeal Rib Roast – finishedVeal on the PlatePuy lentils and Talouse SausagePotatoes baked with cheese and hamThe absolutely stunning wineVery special wine poured from a decanter