Last Day in Bordeaux

Sunday, 14 June, 2015

This is our last day in Bordeaux (ever?- we have been here twice before with Roy Moorfield). It is a relatively quiet day. The breakfast smorgy is pretty much the same as yesterday:

Smoked Salmon before the rats attack it
Smoked Salmon before the rats attack it
Various Hams
Various Hams

JV and some of the others go out to do a Catacombs tour. Myself and a few others are to have a massage in the Spa area of the Chateau. I get to the Spa area and no one is around, except Jeremy and Chris and eventually Colin. Eventually some girls show up and I go in for my massage. It is a gentle one but it does help to ease the back problems. I have a sauna, spa and then a steam bath. After a shower, I feel pretty good.

After the Catacombs, Doug and Julie went to a famous Macaron shop.

In the Macaron shop
In the Macaron shop
Macarons
Macarons
Doug smooving over his purchases
Doug smooving over his purchases

Julie and Doug walk back from town. JV is to have a 3 hour massage section from 3:00 but Simone and her go by the massage desk and she can get in early at 1:30. The 3 hour massage probably only lasted 2:45.

Then it is dinner time and we are having pre-dinner drinks at the patio. Turns out it is in the lawn well away from the restaurant.

The Group near the Duck pond
The Group near the Duck pond
Snacks with the wine. The tins with the
Snacks with the wine. The tins with the “Z” on them are the world famous caviare that we got a couple of days ago
Spooning out the caviare
Spooning out the caviare
Some caviare left. There was three serves for everyone. It was delightful, smooth like butter
Some caviare left. There was three serves for everyone. It was delightful, smooth like butter
JV feeding the fish with left over bread
JV feeding the fish with left over bread

We brought our own glasses so JV takes them back to our room. We then meet in the restaurant for another gala dinner.

The Carte for the night
The Carte for the night
Special Duck starter
Special Duck starter
Table B
Table B
Table A
Table A
Salmon Tartare
Salmon Tartare
Lobster Tails with Iberian ham Beignet (the long cigar) - brilliant
Lobster Tails with Iberian ham Beignet (the long cigar) – brilliant
Duck fillet
Duck fillet
I had made a deal with Simone to give her my dessert but got this fresh fruit salad instead.
I had made a deal with Simone to give her my dessert but got this fresh fruit salad instead.
Chocolate biscuit
Chocolate biscuit

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As we have to pack suitcases to move out of Bordeaux the next day, it is an earlier night.

Many Events in St Emilion

Saturday, 13 June

We have an earlier breakfast which is a pretty decent smorgasbord.

Who took most of the smoked salmon?
Who took most of the smoked salmon?

We have a very full day ahead of us so start out relatively early at 10:00. A smaller bus picks us up – the driver had lived in Brisbane for 19 years. It is another gray day but the weather generally held out.

The Caviare Farm

The first stop is a water farm where Sturgeon are raised to eventually produce caviare. It was a little difficult to find but definitely worth it.

The Farm's Shop. Although it was supposed to be open, it never was
The Farm’s Shop. Although it was supposed to be open, it never was

A worker arrived and was to be our guide, a very good one although his English was limited. We walk down to where the fish are. Greeted by 4 German Shepherds barking away.

The Guard Dog on watch
The Guard Dog on watch

We were at tanks that had smaller Sturgeon at first and we tried to take photos of them jumping our of the water but in general they were too quick for us.

Smaller Sturgeon in the Tanks
Smaller Sturgeon in the Tanks
A smaller Sturgeon
A smaller Sturgeon
Grabbing a much larger Sturgeon from the tank
Grabbing a much larger Sturgeon from the tank
Bit ugly ain't it?
Bit ugly ain’t it?
The Sturgeon in all her glory
The Sturgeon in all her glory

We moved to another part of the farm where there was a different kind of Sturgeon.

Much stronger these fish
Much stronger these fish

That was the end of the tour. Colin had wanted to buy some of the fresh caviare but the shop was still not open even though it had agreed to do so on Wednesday. We try a shop in town but there was none there either.

Aussie BBQ

The next event is a BBQ at an ex-pat Australian’s “small” farm house. Kate had moved here about 9 years ago with her husband only for him to die a short time after wards. She stayed on and manages the whole thing by herself, including horses, goats, chickens, etc. The house has two separate sections of 3 bedrooms each for guests. Colin stays here every Christmas.

The Troops at the back of the house
The Troops at the back of the house
Colin greeting the French friends that are cooking the BBQ
Colin greeting the French friends that are cooking the BBQ
The Swimming Pool
The Swimming Pool
The Drinks, now we are taling
The Drinks, now we are taling
Duck Sausage - simply magnificent
Duck Sausage – simply magnificent
Chicken Sausages - also very good
Chicken Sausages – also very good
Onion tart with Anchovies and Olives
Onion tart with Anchovies and Olives
Quiche
Quiche
Sturgeon Brochettes from the BBQ. Very good, JV loved them
Sturgeon Brochettes from the BBQ. Very good, JV loved them
Other snacks and roasted potatoes
Other snacks and roasted potatoes
The Front of the House
The Front of the House

Near the end I met up with some of the animals – the Goats, a Horse and some chooks. The weather was stunning and I believe that I got a bit of a tan. It was a sad goodbye to depart. Colin had left some clothes from last Christmas which he brought back on the bus.

St Emilion

On our way back, the bus driver took us to the bus depot. There waiting was his wife who had managed to buy caviare and passed it over to Colin. Alls well that ends well.

The bus then drove on and stopped in St Emilion. Most of the troops got off, including JV, to have a look around. I went back for a snooze, of course.

The home of the Macaron
The home of the Macaron

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A sad event occurred in town. One of our troops, Nonna, cut her leg open. There was lots of blood, she is on blood thinners. The local Pharmacist came out and did what she could but said that Nonna should really go to a hospital for stitches. So Nonna, Robbie and Mouse caught a taxi to the next town where they were there for much of the evening and hence missed out on the wonderful meal we were to have that night.

The following are photos JV took after the dinner.

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Ah, Duck
Ah, Duck

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Ah, Goose
Ah, Goose
Truffles
Truffles
A local “tuck shop” menu – looks OK

The Duck Rescue

JV was going to walk back but Colin and her grabbed a cab instead. Back at the Chateau, JV found a lost little duckling in the hotel.

The Lost Duckling
The Lost Duckling

Naturally, the duckling needed to be rescued. JV with help of others carried it to the pond. It swam out there gratefully and eventually was joined by the Mother.

The Rescued Duckling - job well done
The Rescued Duckling – job well done

The Mistress

We catch taxis into town albeit with a screw up of meeting times. When we get there, people, mostly in sits, are everywhere with Police blocking off roads to where we wanted to go. It turns out that the ex-Presidents Mistress was in town for some function with lots of people attending. Ah, the French.

Some of the Hordes
Some of the Hordes

Hostellerie de Plaisance

This is a two Michelin star restaurant for tonight. The Police have blocked off some roads so we had to walk a ways to get the.

Doug came out to greet us
Doug came out to greet us
Part of a small “chain” – Relais Chateaux
To have drinks outside. Sadly it started to rain
To have drinks outside. Sadly it started to rain
So we moved inside. “Only” Salmon Tattinger
Amazing Starters
Amazing Starters

It is then that we learn about Nonna’s accident and the reduced numbers. We go to our private room which is set-up with two round tables of six.

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The Menu, very impressive
The Menu, very impressive

The Head Waiter asked if we had any food problems. I told him that I could not do the Egg course, as did Simone and did not eat desserts. That was no problem, he said.

The Egg - looked very impressive
The Egg – looked very impressive
Our replacement dish - Artichokes and other goodies. Wow
Our replacement dish – Artichokes and other goodies. Wow
Smoked Mussels including Aquitane's Caviare. Again WOW!
Smoked Mussels including Aquitane’s Caviare. Again WOW!
Main course of Turbot
Main course of Turbot
Main Course - Farm Hen
Main Course – Farm Hen
The View from the Restaurant
The View from the Restaurant
Chocolate and Cherries
Chocolate and Cherries
Replacement Cheese for me
Replacement Cheese for me
Strawberry from Southwest
Strawberry from Southwest
More sweet delicacies
More sweet delicacies
Autograph from the Chef
Autograph from the Chef

We go to catch the taxi back to the farm. We are in the first group and the taxi “is waiting for us at the pharmacy”. Of course, it is not there and we wander around for ages until eventually our old favourite van shows up. It takes us back home and then heads to to collect the rest of the group.

A stunning day. The next morning, both Jeremy and Colin compare this against the 3 Star Per Se we did in NYC last year. Their view was that the building, the room, the view, the service, the food and the wine were better than Per Se. I remain sitting on the fence with that comparison and the Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in London 10 days ago. Suffice to say, all were great.

Move to St Emilion

Friday, 12 June, 2015

Today it is goodbye to our private château and our friends who work there. I tried to take a number of photos but only one turned out and it was not very good.

Justine waving and Isobel. The whole staff set were in line but I blew it as usual.
Justine waving and Isobel. The whole staff set were in line but I blew it as usual.

We head across Bordeaux to St Emilion. There was road construction that slowed us down badly for a while but we got there in under 90 minutes.

Chateau Hotel Grand Barail
Chateau Hotel Grand Barail
Our home for the next three nights
Our home for the next three nights

Grand Barrail is a large Chateau Hotel with many rooms, a Spa, a weightroom and a restaurant.

The Main Room, big and roomy and modern
The Main Room, big and roomy and modern
There is a desk in the room, there was not in the last place
There is a desk in the room, there was not in the last place
Modern Bathroom. There is a bath tub behind the door
Modern Bathroom. There is a bath tub behind the door
Never seen a shower set-up like this
Never seen a shower set-up like this
The view from the shower window
The view from the shower window

One thing I would say about this place is that the Wireless, at least in our remote room, is very slow which makes it time consuming to do the Blog.

There is a winery next door that is associated with the Chateau. Colin has organised for us to have a tour of the winery.

Entrance to the winery
Entrance to the winery
Colin and Doug leading the way
Colin and Doug leading the way
Looking back over the grapes to the Chateau
Looking back over the grapes to the Chateau

We are met by a delightful young girl who was very knowledgeable and informative. In the photo above, there are tiny grapes forming that she stated had started two days ago.

Our guide in the barrel room
Our guide in the barrel room
The Full Name of the Chateau and Winery
The Full Name of the Chateau and Winery
Pouring our tasting glasses. There were two 2009 reds shown.
Pouring our tasting glasses. There were two 2009 reds shown.
In their wine shop
In their wine shop
She showed us a very fruity Sauvignon Blanc
She showed us a very fruity Sauvignon Blanc
Looking back at the winery
Looking back at the winery

That evening we are to dine in town at a classic Bistro. We are a group of 16 and a taxi for 8 is waiting for us. He said another taxi would be back in 10 minutes. Well, 10 minutes passed more than once. Finally, the same taxi came back and picked the second group of 8 up. We go there and it is neither in the town, out amongst the vines, nor really a bistro – a large restaurant would be more to the point.

Waves from the top from some of the guys on the first load
Waves from the top from some of the guys on the first load
The Restaurant is on the first floor - wine barrels at the ground floor
The Restaurant is on the first floor – wine barrels at the ground floor
The View from the top
The View from the top
The Guys settling in. The restaurant was mostly full by the time we left.
The Guys settling in. The restaurant was mostly full by the time we left.
Appetiser of Fetta Cheese
Appetiser of Fetta Cheese

As we had not eaten since breakfast, this was very welcome. The menu had three courses and I told Colin I could not eat the first or the last. Colin organised a replacement of the first course for me.

The first course - Egg with Foie Gras
The first course – Egg with Foie Gras

This course was not very popular with some of the troops.

Main course of Pork
Main course of Pork

Again this course was not very popular wth some because the amount of fat on the pork.

Dessert
Dessert

We head back, in twwo shits again of the taxi, to the Chateau.

Every Chateau needs a helicopter
Every Chateau needs a helicopter

There was a suggestion to have a drink at the bar but we decide to have an earlier night.

A Music Surprise

Thursday, 11 June, 2015

This is to be a very quiet day albeit with a twist. At breakfast Colin makes a dish that we agreed upon the night before from the leftover potatoes and Toulouse sausage.

Bubble and Squeak with Bacon
Bubble and Squeak with Bacon

At 11:00 each day we had a health drink, either fruit or vegetable.

Healthy Fruit Drink
Healthy Fruit Drink
Bone Marrow organised by Doug earlier in the week picked up by the girls
Bone Marrow organised by Doug earlier in the week picked up by the girls
Lunch spread - mostly salads
Lunch spread – mostly salads
Happy Hour
Happy Hour
Doug's Cured Salmon
Doug’s Cured Salmon

Colin had indicated that we would be heading out to a pub at 5:00. Julie was not yet back from her pedicure so I was worried she would not be able to find us. Instead, Colin said we would be staying in and we would be listening to jazz music.

http://mariecarrie.com/

The Music Duo
The Music Duo
Canapes - Blue Cheese and Honey
Canapes – Blue Cheese and Honey

I have not put a video in these Blogs before but I will attempt this one. One can see that the quality of my videos easily surpasses my photos, on the down side.

The band played for 2.5 hours with two breaks in between. We liked them and would recommend. Then it was time for dinner.

The Special Carte from Colin & Doug
The Special Carte from Colin & Doug
The Very Special Red
The Very Special Red
First course of cured Salmon
First course of cured Salmon
Rabbit Rillette Pie, brilliant
Rabbit Rillette Pie, brilliant
Main of Pork Fillet Bordelaise with Bone Marrow
Main of Pork Fillet Bordelaise with Bone Marrow
Trio of chocolate, prunes and Julie's Armagnac
Trio of chocolate, prunes and Julie’s Armagnac

Very good wine, food and company

Cooking Lesson – Pate and Terrain (sic)

Wednesday, 10 June, 2015

Today, there is the first cooking lesson from Doug. Julie and some others elect to have a massage instead. There are six of us attending the lesson. We are not doing Pate or Terrain (sic) but instead Rillettes – Rabbit and Salmon.

Starts with Pork Belly for the fat
Starts with Pork Belly for the fat
Rabbit Legs
Rabbit Legs
In the pot
In the pot
Poached Salmon
Poached Salmon
Some Smoked Salmon for flavour
Some Smoked Salmon for flavour
Onion and butter for the Salmon. My contribution
Onion and butter for the Salmon. My contribution
Thyme added to the rabbit
Thyme added to the rabbit

We finished with the rabbit in the oven and the salmon cooking.

Lunch Spread
Lunch Spread

After lunch, I had the typical nap. I was awakened by a knock at the door to say that cooking was continuing. I got back to the kitchen a bit late.

Rabbit with skin and bones (mostly) removed and mashed up
Rabbit with skin and bones (mostly) removed and mashed up

Doug will carry on with the rest of the preparation.

Veal rib roast for tonight
Veal rib roast for tonight
Tonight's Menu
Tonight’s Menu
Rabbit Rillettes Canapes for pre-dinner and champagne
Rabbit Rillettes Canapes for pre-dinner and champagne
Salmon Rillettes Canapes for pre-dinner and champagne
Salmon Rillettes Canapes for pre-dinner and champagne
Veal Rib Roast - finished
Veal Rib Roast – finished
Veal on the Plate
Veal on the Plate
Puy lentils and Talouse Sausage
Puy lentils and Talouse Sausage
Potatoes baked with cheese and ham
Potatoes baked with cheese and ham
The absolutely stunning wine
The absolutely stunning wine
Very special wine poured from a decanter
Very special wine poured from a decanter

http://www.millesima.fr/producteur-chateau-malescot-st-exupery.html?ecmp=SEM_%5BG%5D_%5B70584854538%5D_%5Bchateau%20malescot%20st%20exupery%5D_%5Be%5D&gclid=COHbwvDih8YCFbHKtAodf1YApw

Special Green Beans
Special Green Beans
Chateau d'Yqem famous sauterne
Chateau d’Yqem famous sauterne
Blue cheese with the Sauterne
Blue cheese with the Sauterne

Stunning meal with stunning wine. In spite of the weather that had turned quite cold and wet and sour, it was a very good day.