A very wet Great Britain

Saturday, 22 July, 2017 – weather: rainy

Today we are going to depart Scotland to go by train down to London. For some reason, Julie is up very early and goes out to go to a market somewhere in town. Some photos.

This is Isobel who sold Julie a magic cure for psoriasis

Julie returns and we have time to have breakfast at the usual place, including Julie’s smoked salmon as usual. It is drizzling a bit as we walk there and starts to rain hard as we walk back, getting a bit wet. We are getting picked up by a taxi at 10:00 so pack up the suitcases and depart our apartment. Our timing is great as the taxi drives up just as we reach the front door. It is a short trip to the train station but it was worth it from the point of view of the rain and the hills. We have a significant wait but that is OK. Julie walks us up all the way to the end of the station which is not where we want to be – when our train is announced we have to walk all the way back to where we came from.

In Waverley Station and its glass ceiling

Turns out that this trip is on Virgin Trains which means that some of the things I had read about before coming up here were now true. We could have gone to the First Class lounge but because we were at the wrong end of the station, we did not. We go down to our platform and wait for the train. When it does arrive, we discover that in order to board our first class carriage we are going to have to walk through the increasing rain. Any way, they eventually open up the doors and we go down to the end of the platform and board. Julie is able to find luggage rack space at the front of the cabin. It is a long trip, 4:40, so we settle into the newly upgraded leather seats. Once again my seat has been double booked but because we got there first, we don’t have to move.

Eventually the train takes off. They bring us a new menu, the weekend version which has no hot food and alcoholic drinks are extra cost. Still, there is the Hoisin Duck wraps on the menu and when they bring around the food trolley I order one which is a pre-packaged pair of wraps in a box.

Our booty – duck wraps at the right. Not fantastic but not bad
Julie managed to do a fair bit of study on the train

As we got further South, the rain got stronger and stronger. By the time we got to London, it was raining harder than it had been in Edinburgh. We arrive at Kings Cross and make our way across to the Tube station. When we board the train on the Piccadilly Line, it is crowded with no seating for the 8+ stations to get to Earls Court. We have nice chats with a retired couple from Ohio that is also standing up. They get off at Earls Court too.

We make our way up the elevator and exit into Earls Court Road. It is still raining although not horribly and we do get a bit wet. There was a bit of confusion finding our apartment because our road is actually in 4 pieces but Julie’s GPS saves the day. We are met by our Hostess, Katerina. There are stairs down into our apartment but Katerina helps Julie carry the suitcases down. Katerina is a lovely girl and explained everything about the apartment. She also promised to come back the day we check out to help us carry the bags up the stairs.

Let me say something about the apartment. The building is in a large row of older, multi-story apartment blocks typical of London. Our apartment was probably pretty old too but has been fully renovated by Katerina. It is small but fully functional and very modern. Some photos:

The Bed
The Internet Work Desk
Modern bathroom with spa
Lounge room
Kitchen area – we are making a mess already

Julie goes out to get some supplies and to suss out possible restaurants for tonight.

You can see the rain problems
Interesting door

Julie comes back with supplies and also some brochures for likely restaurants. The most promising seem to be a couple of nearby Lebanese restaurants. We go out and the rain is getting harder and harder, me without an umbrella am getting quite wet. We had tentatively select the Lebanese that was a bit further away but the rain is so hard, Julie takes into the nearer one. It was not a bad choice.

Julie perusing the menu
Our wine was a Chilean Shiraz
INteresting China – Cous Cous is the name of the restaurant
Chilli olives were quite good
The China was replaced by another interesting design

Julie was going to order a fish dish but was advised by the waiter that it would not suit, likely to be overcooked.

She went for the Chicken Tagine instead and it was very good
I went with Cous Cous Drna which came with vegies in stock
plus Lamb Chops, Merguez sausages and Lamb balls
plus Chick peas and a Chilli sauce

There was quite a lot of food and it was enjoyable. The chicken was really nice but we could not finish it all.

Julie ordered a special tea

There was a young girl (20s any way) sitting at the table next to us. Turns out that she is Australian and studying at Oxford, just like Julie. Amazing.

This restaurant was actually Moroccan. The waiters tried to talk me into having a Moroccan red wine and gave me a taste. It was quite reasonable but a Cabernet which we don’t do these days. Still very kind of them.

Back home, not raining quite as hard but still got a little wet.

Ramblings I was originally going to title this Post Wet, Wet, Wet which immediately triggered all sorts of thoughts like: the group WWW that did the Troggs song Love is All Around; Sir Douglas Quintet, anybody remember them, Rain, Rain, Rain; Dustin Hoffman as Rain Man; Beatles with Rain sung backwards; Creedence two Rain songs with Who’ll Stop the Rain the most relevant at the moment; Gene Kelly and Singing in the Rain; the possibilities were endless.

Last Day in Scotland

Friday, 21 July, 2017 – weather: same as yesterday

We sleep in until nearly 10:00 after having been up earlier and going back to bed. There has been rain but now it is just overcast. We decided to go to the usual place for breakfast and we both have the same thing as before, including Julie’s smoked salmon. The difference:

We now know the name of the shop
The Kitchen in the shop next door
I wanted to get a fresh orange juice from this nearby shop but they only did poncy stuff
Another old castle up the rocks

The bus tickets we bought yesterday cater for 24 hours use. We have an hour to spare so decide to take the City Site Seeing Edinburgh tour – the Red Line on the map from yesterday’s Blog. This goes to a few more places and travels in general in the opposite direction. It also had a pre-recorded audio which was easier to understand than the one from yesterday. Once again no photos from the tour as Julie had already covered those two days ago now.

When the tour ends we get off at an earlier stop than where we started – reason, it is down hill. Near our exit, we drop into a place hinting at a food and craft market. It has been idle the last few datys.

Julie getting a coffee. The stall next to her was serving crab on fries
Other new stalls

Clearly this is a new development not far from the breakfast place. Collectively it is called the New Waverley, Waverley being the name of the train station which is not that far away. What we learned on the bus tours is that the “new towns” of Edinburgh are generally 250 years old. I turn off at our street through the arch but Julie wants to check out a graveyard.

The Grave of Adam Smith the founder of modern economics thought?

Julie returns and freshens up. But there is still plenty of time for prancing. She heads up the big hill behind us and here are some of her photos.

Those look like stairs

The Ghost Tour Bus – wank

One last look at the castle up the hill

Julie comes back around 6:30. She says she is not real hungry but we decide to go to the Indian place near our breakfast place in New Waverley. It is large and very new.

Looking across the street – people kept puring in all night. Turns out to be some kind of Belgian festival over 3 days.
Julie about to consider the menu – says she wants vegetarian
Salad
Indian Cheese curry
Garlic Naan
I was allowed a Lamb Chop curry
The obligatory Irish Coffee

Enough for the night, we are on the road tomorrow.

Around Edinburgh by Bus

Thursday, 20 July, 2017 – weather: all over the place

Today we are going to take hop on/off bus tours of Edinburgh. We decided to do that this day because the weather forecast looked the best of the remaining days. When we get up we are not so sure that we made the right weather decision. It has rained over night and then starts raining again. Then there was bright sunshine, then grey overcast, then slowly improving until the best weather was at sundown. Just like a typical Melbourne day. Trouble is this is the middle of summer!

Julie goes out to the place we went yesterday for her brekkie:

Just a reminder that she had Salmon for breakfast, again

When she comes back we head out for our adventure:

First stop is Oink the pig shop that Julie found yesterday
With my friend in the window
I order the Grunter – the largest pulled pig roll. Served with onion/sage dressing and chilli cheese sauce
Trying to eat the Grunter

We then go to the bus stop and discover there is a choice of three different routes.

We pick the first bus to arrive which is the Majestic Tour or the Blue line on the map. This is a tour which has pre-recorded descriptions which we listen to via head phones. It handles several different languages – was it just coincidence the 2 times I used it the language was defaulting to Chinese?

In any case, there are no photos taken from the busses as we are largely covering ground Julie walked around yesterday – see that Post for highlights. We did get to hear about lots of famous people from Edinburgh such as Adam Smith, James Clerk Maxwell, John Smith, Sean Connery, Robert Louis Stevenson, Arthur Conan Doyle, etc.

When we finish that tour, we wait to get on another which is the Edinburgh Tour – the Green line on the map. All in all with waiting and tours it was about 4 hours of elapsed time. We go back to the apartment and, given there is still time in the afternoon, after a bit of a refresh Julie goes prancing again while I work on the Blog. Here are some of her photos.

Love the sign

Marks and Spencer has lots of pre-prepared food, ready to heat up
Lots and lots of stuff

There has to be Smoked Salmon of course

Julie had said that she would be back before 6:00 and she was – 5:59. There is some discussion about going out for dinner soon and also not going very far. We decide that we will go to the local pub at the top of our street.

Looking over the bar area
Looking to the back of the dining area. The white outcrop on the left is another dumb waiter
Julie perusing the menu
Not a large wine selection – this one is a Sicilian Shiraz, not that great although it opened up a bit after a while
Julie orders a Salmon and Egg salad, she quite liked it
I ordered a burger with cheddar cheese and bacon

The layout was impressive. The salad went to add to Julie’s salad; the chips were fine as were the onion rings; the tomato slice thick; and the burger itself not very nice, oh well.

Julie ordered an Irish Coffee.

The coffee and the Whiskey, Jamesons, were good, the UHT milk a little out of place.

The food service was very slow. As well, people came in looking for meals at 6:45 but were told forcibly that the kitchen was closed. All in all not the best experience on the trip but Julie did ok with her stuff. Back to the flat in a short walk and some more drinks and Julie does do some work.

Around Glasgow on Foot

Wednesday, 19 July, 2017 – weather: grey

After waking up early we go back to bed and sleep in soundly until after 9:00. Nice. Julie saw a couple of breakfast places nearby so we thought we would give them a try.

You just can’t escape GB

We pick a place nearby GB which is a small shop with a counter and a few tables. The kitchen is in the shop next door.

Julie orders smoked salmon muffins
I have a Bacon roll – perfect
Quirky signs e.g. the Internet password as doughnut
A variety of doughnuts available
The cook brought these over which are not on the menu

It was really an iconic and tasty little breakfast shop. I will try to get a photo of the outside in a later Post. As it is not raining, and maybe it won’t rain, I decide we should walk around for a while as we are near the Train Station. My main goal is to suss out a place for tonight. Some of my photos.

An iconic laneway with a restaurant at the end
and another
and another
Great name for a Whiskey Bar
Innovative use for old red phone booths
There were several Fudge Kitchens around

That’s enough for me for the day. We go back to the apartment.

Julie about to enter our apartment building

Julie stays in the apartment for a few minutes to refresh and heads out prancing on her own. She takes some of her school lessons stuff so she can settle in and work somewhere else. It does not happen. Instead she walks all over Edinburgh and takes lots of photos which follow.

First stop, a Pig shop
Now that’s a Pig
The Menu
Making up a Grunter
Back to normal – Ducks
The arch next to the Pub is the entrance to the road our apartment is on

Layers of constructions

Cute
The Famous Castle
Back of the Castle – note all the tour busses who have brought people to the castle

The Cathedral – as usual many photos taken from inside but I have skipped them all

Julie also went into an art gallery, a couple from there.

Cooking brekkie
Domestic violence

Columns!
Edinburgh has one too

We heard about Dr. Bell of Edinburgh who was the prototype for Sherlock Holmes

Julie finally returns well after 6:00. Mentioned that she did not do any work. I suggest that we try the other Whiski restaurant which is closer and on High Street. So we go there and manage to get the last table.

In Whiski. The opening half way along on the right is a dumb waiter

The food menu is quite different from the one last night but the drink menu is identical which means we can order another flight of Whiskey.

This was Flight 4 in yesterday’s menu photo

I have a taste of each – the one on the right was favourite – while Julie finishes them off. Once again she does not have any wine. The wine list was the same as last night too but I ordered a Chilean Merlot tonight.

I ordered Smoked Salmon and Cod Patties
Julie ordered Caesar Salad with a Side of Smoked Salmon starter

The Caesar Salad was very disappointing being lettuce, including rocket, croutons and nothing else – no anchovies, no bacon, no tomatoes. Julie orders a Scottish coffee.

The Scottish coffee which Julie augments with her remaining Whiskeys
Some clever posters from Dewars
Our restaurant for tonight

On to Scotland

Tuesday, 18 July, 2017 – weather: great

It is time to leave York and our great apartment for the last 4 days.

Our Airbnb apartment inside the city walls

Julie has gone out early to arrange a taxi from the nearby stand. She also goes to Marks and Spencer for Orange Juice, Coffee and presumably some food.

One last photo in York

Our taxi to take us to the station shows up at the allotted time. There is an updated trip out of the city as construction has closed the main road. Our driver is very friendly and talkative. The station is nowhere near as crowded as last Friday’s racing day. We have a bit of a wait for the train but it eventually turns up.

Last night I had Googled the first class service on our route to Edinburgh. It looked very promising with new leather seats and a comprehensive menu including Duck in wraps with Hoisin sauce, a full bar etc. We were bitterly disappointed when we boarded the train. First of all, these were old cloth seats. Then our seats were in use a double booking had occurred, we find some others. Finally the menu was extremely disappointing:

The only hot meal was a bacon, egg and sausage roll – Julie’s potato chips were good
The only cold dish was a mozzarella sandwich – Julie improved hers a bit by adding the offending egg from my roll to her sandwich

There were a few soft drinks offered but booze and a few other snacks were extra cost items so we did not partake. The trip was around 1:45 in duration on a fast train. There were four stops along the way. Some of the scenery was stunning especially when we got quite close to the Coast, presumably of the North Sea.

When we finally arrive in Edinburgh we are in a very large train station which takes a while to get out of.

A huge beer palace being built across the road from the station

Our Airbnb contact, Uksana, said we should walk to her office to pick up the keys. There was the usual missing directions error – for the first decision do we turn left or right when we exit the train station? Julie asked someone and initially they weren’t sure but guided us the right way. The contact said it was a short trip, hah! – it was a Capo 5-7 minutes. First thing I noticed is that Edinburgh is very hilly and we have to go uphill most of the way. Then the footpaths are not suited for hauling large suitcases with lots of brick or cobblestone parts or just broken concrete. It is hot too. Finally, after some missteps we reach her office and get the keys, more like 30 minutes than 5.

Uksana gives us a map and directions to the apartment – another Capo 5 minute walk. A good thing is that it was mostly downhill although the streets are crowded with people and there is the usual construction going on everywhere which makes progress slow.

Finally we reach the apartment. We are staying in Edinburgh’s “New Town” which isn’t that new but presumably newer than the old town. We are in a group of apartments which look like most of them are used for short term rentals. The apartment is quite functional and clean.

The Kitchen
The Lounge room / my work area
Comfortable Bedroom
Modern bathroom

To no surprise of my regular readers, Julie goes out prancing. Apparently she walked all over town and it is a big place. A few of her photos along the way.

A “witch floating on air”

Julie returns at around 5:30 and says she has made a booking for a restaurant and that we should head out to it shortly. I notice on her Google Maps that it is supposed to be a 15 minute walk, even they have the Capo disease. The main issue is that it is uphill virtually the whole way. I take a couple of photos along the way.

Traffic chaos on the Royal Mile plus lots of pedestrian traffic

Finally, after a walk that seemed like it was all the way back to York, we arrive at our restaurant.

The Whiski Rooms and Shop

I had studied this place in some depth while in Melbourne a few months ago. We had walked by another Whiski place on High Street on our walk here. One of the highlights of Whiski is they provide Whiskey tastings.

We ordered Flights 2 and 3
Flight 3 – I started with the one on the right which I probably liked the best of all
Flight 2 – Julie started with this and then we swapped them around

The whiskey on the right of Flight 2 was very “peaty”. I helped Julie finish Flight 3 but she kept the remaining Flight 2 for her dinner.

Julie’s starter was Salmon 3 ways, I did not have a starter
Julie’s main course was Salmon and lots of vegies
I had Venison as a main course
Julie did not have any of the wine at all, which was a South African Shiraz.
Julie made her own “Scottish Coffee” using the last bit of the tasting

I did not feel up to the walk back, even though most of it would have been down hill so we order a taxi to get back home.