Thursday, 1 October

Any way, on with the show. It is time for breakfast and we can see its location from our balcony, it is way down at the bottom of the building. So we traipse up and down stairs to reach it. OK, we sit outside in a patio and the weather is great. Our first stop is a town called Barbate. I have extracted the following discussion of Vejer and Barbate from the net.

http://www.villamiramarspain.com/vejer-and-barbate/4533038758

Vejer is a walled village perched high on a mountain top overlooking the wetlands and is one of the so-called “Pueblos Blancos” or “white villages” dating back to the time of the Moors. It is about a 20 minute drive from Miramar and has the remains of a castle, a beautiful square and a network of narrow, cobbled, sloping streets which are best explored by foot. Almost everywhere you will see the Moorish influence.

Barbate is closer to Miramar and is the port in to which the fishing boats bring the bi-annual catch (in the spring and autumn) of the tuna (each tuna weighs upwards of 200 kg) before they are sent all over the world. With the method of catching the tuna unchanged over 3000 years it is certainly not to be missed. Barbate also hosts an excellent daily market. Further round the coast it is possible to visit Cape Trafalgar to see where Admiral Lord Nelson in 1805 won the Battle of Trafalgar.

Our first stop in Barbate is the aforementioned daily market where we are joined by a special friend – a charming expatriate local chef,
Annie B, whom I mentioned in yesterday’s Post, with whom we’ll be cooking tonight at her house. Check out her website which is very good.

http://www.anniebspain.com/

Entering the market
Entering the market
Meeting Annie - she is obscured but is under the Hat in the photo in front of guide Carlos and Kerrie
Meeting Annie – she is obscured but is under the Hat in the photo in front of guide Carlos and Kerrie
Being by the Sea, the market is primarily Fish
Being by the Sea, the market is primarily Fish
But there are Meat and
But there are Meat and
a wide range of Vegetables and Fruit too
a wide range of Vegetables and Fruit too
Lots of varieties of fish
Lots of varieties of fish

One of the fish mongers was a very outgoing lady in a pink top, quite a sales person.

Frank and our heroine
Frank and our heroine
Di and Kerrie learning to be Fish Mongers
Di and Kerrie learning to be Fish Mongers

We bought a fair bit of our fish for tonight at her shop – a great sales pitch.

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As an aside, after a while I found a chair and took a seat, a common theme throughout the trip. The pink Lady went off and came back with her lunch – NOT fish. She came over to me with her Jamon sandwich and told me in Spanish that I really should try Jamon – I did not know how to tell her that we had done that already.

Pig's head anyone?
Pig’s head anyone?

We then leave Annie and go in the bus to a local Tuna factory. We visit one of the last remaining salazon factories in the country where we’ll see how tuna was salted, cured and processed in Roman times.

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Map showing Tuna migration
Map showing Tuna migration
Cuts from a Tuna
Cuts from a Tuna

We are to be given a demonstration of the cutting up of a Blue Fin Tuna. The do Yellow Fin as well, but the Blue Fin is more popular and expensive.

Blue Fin Tuna for the "operation"
Blue Fin Tuna for the “operation”
Sanitary Gear again - no truth to the rumour that JV is pregnant
Sanitary Gear again – no truth to the rumour that JV is pregnant
The First Cut is the Deepest
The First Cut is the Deepest
Cutting off the fillets
Cutting off the fillets
The Fillets
The Fillets
Extracting more good bits
Extracting more good bits
All of the fish is used one way or the other but these are the premier pieces
All of the fish is used one way or the other but these are the premier pieces

We continue our tour.

Cleaning the fat from the tuna - by hand
Cleaning the fat from the tuna – by hand
Cuttiing and packing the Tuna into cans, by hand
Cuttiing and packing the Tuna into cans, by hand
Adding oil - controlled manually
Adding oil – controlled manually
Onto the conveyor belt for machine inserting the lids
Onto the conveyor belt for machine inserting the lids
Salting Tuna fillets for another product
Salting Tuna fillets for another product
Product Range
Product Range

We also went near a room where they smoke some of the Tuna, and Mussels too, but were not allowed in. We are then treated to a tasting of some of the Tuna products.

Very tasty, loved the skewer of Tuna and cheese. Wine was nice too.
Very tasty, loved the skewer of Tuna and cheese. Wine was nice too.

At the end of the tour we are each given a generous present of a Herpac “Lunch pail” which contain several cans and bottles of Tuna products. A very good tour.

https://www.herpac.com/en/

We then get on the bus to head not far away for lunch to a restaurant that specialises in – Tuna.

elcampero

First course, Tuna and Onions
First course, Tuna and Onions
Magnificent platter of mostly raw Tuna and other goodies
Magnificent platter of mostly raw Tuna and other goodies
Tuna Carpaccio
Tuna Carpaccio
Seared Tuna Salad
Seared Tuna Salad
Tuna Steaks
Tuna Steaks

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As I look back on this meal I am amazed at how good it was, given there was no meat. It clearly was a highlight and I had forgotten about it almost.

El Campero Tuna restaurant

We drive back to Vejer to rest up for our dinner tonight, at least I rested.

The group sets out to walk through the cobblestone lanes of the village to Annie B’s house.

Annie B's business card
Annie B’s business card
Panaoramic view of the horizon
Panaoramic view of the horizon
Entering Casa Alegre
Entering Casa Alegre

Annie’s house is quite large with multiple levels. We start out at a lower level.

Look at those Pomegranates and Figs
Look at those Pomegranates and Figs

We then proceed to the top of the house which is an outdoor patios where the meal will be served.

Looking over the white city from the patio
Looking over the white city from the patio
A singer and guitar player entertainment provided
A singer and guitar player entertainment provided
There is Annie next to the musicians
There is Annie next to the musicians
Cooking lesson in the making of Gazpacho in the background
Cooking lesson in the making of Gazpacho in the background
Some of the girls of the group enjoying refreshing drinks
Some of the girls of the group enjoying refreshing drinks
First snacks
First snacks
The Master, who had gone early to do cooking, and Julie
The Master, who had gone early to do cooking, and Julie
The Gazpacho being served
The Gazpacho being served
Sardines
Sardines
Carrots and pomegranates
Carrots and pomegranates
Prawns in Salt from Frank
Prawns in Salt from Frank
Fish soup being made
Fish soup being made
Fish Soup in the Bowl
Fish Soup in the Bowl
Pomegranates
Pomegranates
Muscatel served with the fruit
Muscatel served with the fruit
Our table near the end of the night
Our table near the end of the night
The other table
The other table
Serving dessert, fruit and Muscatel
Serving dessert, fruit and Muscatel
The cake being served by Annie
The cake being served by Annie
The dessert on the plate
The dessert on the plate

Wow, that was the end of that, quite stunning. Thanks to Annie, her staff and Frank of course.

We walk back to the Hotel. Of course we were not smart enough to go to bed. We joined Frank at the bar for a drink.

Frank in the bar from our balcony
Frank in the bar from our balcony

The bar is only about 10 meters away but we have to walk all the way to the bottom of the building and then all the way up to the top to get there. Of course when we were finished we had to reverse the process. Any way, the end of a monster day!!!

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